Distance walked approximately 27km

The good weather had returned and I set off in sunshine. The main GR5 trail heads off through the hills to the west to the medieval town of Liverdun. I was unable to find any accommodation or suitable transport along this route. Instead, I followed a variant, GR5F, which runs through the hills lying parallel to the Moselle. I started the day by walking through the west part of Pont-a-Moselle.

There was fierce fighting along this section of GR5 in both world wars. I have seen a lot of war memorials on this walk, often they also include the number of civilians killed as well as military personnel. In Pont-a-Mousson there is also a memorial to the members of the Resistance

I walked uphill on a series of roads until I came to a track leading into the forest. There was then a long section through the trees with very few views but the path had a gentle gradient so the walking was relaxed. I emerged from the forest at the village of Jezainville. There was then another long segment of walking along quiet roads between fields.

I entered into woodland and followed paths uphill to a chapel named Norte Dame but a plaque that appeared to say it was dedicated to Joan of Arc. From here there were good views down to the Moselle valley and the town of Dieuloard.

There have been lakes at various intervals along this part of the Moselle. There was an information board, in French, that, I think, said that they were formed when the valley was excavated for silicate deposits that had been washed down from the hillsides. The lakes are now used for leisure and sport.

I walked through the edge of Dieuloard to leave through a residential estate. From here a track ascended through open country

After the village of Saizerais I re-entered woodland and climbed to a path junction with GR5. now it was an easy descent to Custines where I crossed the Moselle for the last time

My hotel was 1km outside Custines on a main road but there was a cycle path. It was Ascension Day so everything was shut but I had brought some bread and salad for supper.

I now had about 5 days walking across the Lorraine plateau before climbing to the Col du Donon. I learned that there was going to be a train strike on the day I was due to return home. One option would have been to complete the walk and get a bus to the nearest city, Strasbourg and spend some time in that city until I could get transport home. However, I had to be back in Manchester for the end of the weekend. After much soul searching I decided the sensible thing to do was to return home now rather than risk being stuck in Strasbourg until the following Monday. My options now will be to miss out this short segment of GR5 or to do it as a “warm up” prior to crossing the Vosges.

Distance walked 22km. 14 miles

The first wet day. I said goodbye to Metz and took the train back to Pagny-sur-Moselle. With all my wet weather gear on I set off back up the hill to where I left GR5 the previous day..

I followed a road past the last few houses. The road became a track and continued between fields and vineyards. There were pictures of some grape varieties grown near here. I was surprised to see Gerwurztraminer grapes are pink, they must separate the skins before making the wine as it is a white wine. The views would have been great on a clear day.

I arrived at another road and followed it, passing between houses to a forest. Here, I took a track that climbed through the forest to the village of Preny. On the way I met a Dutch couple who are doing GR5 a week or two at a time. They have also had trouble getting accommodation between Pont-a-Mousson and Schimerk and have not decided what to do yet. I do have accommodation(after a struggle on the Internet) but resupply and restaurants are few and far between so I have a couple of dehydrated camping meals with me just in case.

There is a ruined castle in Preny. When Carrol Dorgan walked here when he was writing the Cicetone guide he was able to walk through the ruins. Today this was blocked by a gate and all I could see was the remnant of an ivy covered tower.

I descended from Preny on a road with misty views towards the Moselle valley.

The road led eventually to a track that climbed into forest. The Cicerone guide warns to be careful here as there are several turns. I do find it difficult to navigate in forest as there are no landmarks to use as a reference and, often, not all the forestry tracks are marked on the map. I came to one junction where I had to retrace my steps to find the way marker leading off on a small path.

At another junction I could not see a way marker at all. Maybe I should have spent more time thinking about which was the correct way but I guessed wrongly and took the wrong path. When I had not seen a confirmatory way marker after 200 metres I should have turned back. Instead I walked on and after about 1km I was sure I had gone wrong. Rather than retrace my steps I decided to continue although the track was clearly going the wrong direction to GR5. I knew I was heading towards a village, Villers-sous-Preny where I could either continue to Pont-a-Mousson or rejoin GR5. By the time I reached Villers-sous-Preny it was still raining so I just followed roads to Pont-a-Mousson.

I had read in the Cicerone guide that Pont-a-Mousson makes manhole covers for most of France. I have been keeping an eye on street furniture for the last few days and this does seem to be the case.

Of course, as soon as I arrived at the hotel the sun came out so I had a quick wander into town and had very nice pasta and pesto for dinner

Distance walked 28km/ 17 miles

Today was the first of three days walking in the hills on the west side of the Moselle that will bring me to the town of Custines. The day did not begin well. I started to follow some GR markers. After about half a kilometre I realised they were a variant of GR5 (GR5F) which crossed back to the east side of the Moselle, where. Did not wish to go. I had to retrace my steps.

Back on the correct path, I left Ars-sur-Moselle by walking between houses to an open space where there were two war memorials

The one at the front is German dating from 1870 and dedicated to the German general that capture Metz in the Franco-Prussian war, some of the inscription has been defaced. I was surprised the French haven’t removed it. The white monument is dedicated to the French soldiers that liberated Metz at the end of the First World War.

The path now passed between small vineyards to the restored ruins of a Roman acqueduct built to transfer water from a spring near Gorze to Metz.

Just uphill from the aqueduct is a partially restored pool with an overflow channel used at times of high rainfall. It showed the two channel design of the pipeline so that, if one pipe needed repair, water flow could be maintained through the other channel, keeping the supply to Metz running.

I now climbed steeply out of the valley and soon got a good view of Ars-sur-Moselle

I entered a forest. The gradient eased and it was very pleasant, fast walking. After a couple of kilometres I came to “le pierre qui tourne”

As you can see, the stone sits on a narrow base. One legend says that if the full moon falls on December 31st the stone rotates.

Just off GR5, a gap in the trees gave a good view of the Moselle valley

I continued along the very pleasant forest path. I emerged at a road by the Cross of St. Clement, said to be where Clement (the first bishop of Metz)first saw the city of Metz. I continued through forest until I emerged at an enormous field with Gorze on the other side.

Frustratingly,there was no path across the field so I was forced to walk around it within the edge of woodland. This, long way round, brought me out into the village of Gorze. As I left the village I could see a gold statue on the other side of the valley. It was too far away to identify it but it is apparently Norte Dame.

Most of the afternoon was spent in forest with occasional views. I had noticed these ghostly webs before and I assumed they were made by spiders.

I then read an article on the BBC web site (pun unintended) that they are made by ermine moth caterpillars to protect themselves from birds. On closer inspection:

The forest walking was sometimes on tracks and sometimes on paths. It was pleasant but I missed the views. Two notable ones were from the Col de Rudemont

And towards the end, as I approached Pagny-sur-Moselle

Metz is well worth a visit if you are passing. On my first rest day I relaxed. I went to the Metz Pompidou centre for Modern Art which had an exhibition curated by Maurizio Cattelan (he of the banana on the wall fame; that was not on display, unless someone had eaten it.. exhibits varied from the bizarre

To the thought provoking

The clever

And the funny

The following day I wandered round the old town, some lovely public gardens near the old municipal buildings, and visited the cathedral with its Chagall windows

I also went to the Musee de la Cour d’Or with some amazing Gallic- Roman exhibits

Distance walked 28km 17 miles

I had a decision to make: two short days or one long day and then two days off. I chose the latter option. I booked four nights in a hotel in Metz. This gives me me some time for a good rest. I can then do one day’s walk with just a daypack.

I set off early. I walked down a quiet road through Vremy and Failly. I the distance I could see the hills on the west side of the Moselle.

I walked under a motorway bridge and rejoined GR5 in Villers l’Orme. I walked through the village and up a hill where there was a chapel and an oratory dedicated to Fátima.

I know very little about Catholicism but, I think, this relates to a vision of the Virgin Mary by children in the Portuguese village of Fátima. I saw a similar shrine in Luxembourg , which has a significant Portuguese community but I do not know why this is here.

I continued down the road to Mey. The countryside to the south looks very flat, I am not sure how good next week’s walk is going to be

Just outside Mey I saw this sign

What happens in this forest? Gruffalo?? Lions, tigers and bears (Oh My!)? Wild boar are common in this part of France so, more likely, it is probable that this wood is used for hunting.

After Mey I had a short stretch on a path between fields before I entered the suburbs of Metz. The next few kilometres were not interesting but eventually I joined a tarmac path that followed the old city walls of Metz

This led down to the river where I joined a cycle path that followed the Moselle. I didn’t quite get to grips with the geography of the waterways through Metz. There is the Moselle river but there is also a canal and a large artificial lake formed when earth was excavated for a nearby motorway. It made for a few kilometres nice walking.

After the lake I crossed the Moselle and followed a cycle path along the bank for a few kilometres. It was now time for the hard work of the day. I left the riverbank and took a steep path up the hill to Scy-Chazelles. This emerged by its church and Maisie but, disappointingly, only a restricted view of the valley. Almost immediately, I lost a lot of height to walk past the home of Robert Schumann, one of the founding fathers of the EEC.

The road now ran up and down through a few quiet villages

I passed a lavoir, similar to the communal laundries I saw on the Camino last year

After walking through Vaux I finally felt the road and followed a path for a few kilometres through woodland down to Ars-sur-Moselles where I took a train back to Metz.

Distance walked 25km 16 miles

An easy walk today. There was even time to stop for lunch in Vigy.

I set off from the village square in Kedange on a road that climbed gently. I passed a boulangerie which was “a vendre.” A sad sight. Forty years ago every village this size would have a bakery. It seems that village shops are having as much difficulty here as they are in England.

I joined the main road leaving Kedange. Although there was a pavement it was not particularly pleasant. After a kilometre I arrived in Hombourg-Budange. Again, no bakery. Here I turned on to a minor road. There was little traffic. The views were good; open, rolling countryside interspersed with isolated farmhouses and pretty villages.

The road continued through Aboncourt which looked pretty nestled in the hills. It had an attractive town hall.

I walked past a farmhouse that had a flock of housemartins living under the eaves. They were flying in and out, in a hurry, presumably bringing food back to their nests.

At last, at another farmhouse, the road came to an end. I now followed a dirt track to Saint Hubert.

After St Hubert I took a path that ran through woodland to a pretty chapel, the Chapelle Notre Dame de Rabas.

There are a few legends about the origin of this chapel. One is that Charlemagne (the Emperor) was hunting and got lost. His men and horses needed water. He prayed to the Virgin Mary to bring water, which duly appeared and, as thanks, he built the chapel. Another variation states that Charlemagne’s horse stamped on the ground and water spurted forth.

It is likely this was a pagan site and yet another legend is that water from the stream nearby cures rickets.

What is known is that the original shrine was built in 806 and it became a site of pilgrimage in the 11th century. In some ways it still is as the Berlin Camino passes it.

I now had a long and pleasant walk through forest to Vigy. I am staying in an Airbnb in a village with no facilities so I took the opportunity to have a proper lunch. Very nice chicken brochettes with chips and salad. Oh, and a beer.

After lunch I had a short stretch of road before I took a path that ran between a disused railway and fields. The ground to my right dropped gently away to the Moselle valley which I will return to tomorrow. The path then ran between trees to Sanry-Les-Vigy. Here I got a text from the owner of the Airbnb to make sure I turned off GR5 in the forest on a cycle track to Vremy. Thank you Silviane, you saved me walking about 2km.

Initially there was a nice path that ran parallel to the track used by forestry vehicles. Later on I had to dodge the ruts on the main track. I watched out for the signpost and was soon in Vremy.

Distance walked 19 km 12 miles

It is about 55km from Montenach to Metz and I couldn’t find any accommodation near the halfway point so I split the walk into three stages.

I had a leisurely start this morning. It rained in the night so it felt much fresher this morning and the sun was out. I set off up the hill with a stream running next to me down the middle of the road. The gradient was much less than in recent days and I ambled along quite happily. The road became a track and I walked between fields with good views all around.

I walked slowly, being in the moment and enjoying the different shades of green

I walked through the village of Haute Sierck and I then entered the first forest of the day, the Forest de Sierck. After a kilometre I came to a bench by a rather nice wooden signpost for the Camino

This is the Berlin to Santiago Camino. I think it is a different Camino to the one I walked on in Luxembourg. Only another 2000km to go to Santiago. How did pilgrims travel so far? And I before the 20th century you couldn’t get a train or fly home, you had to walk or ride your horse back. See you love, I’ll be back sometime next year.

I rested on the bench but a farmer decided to spray the field behind me. I could see the spray getting nearer so I put my rucksack back on an set off again.

There was a short hold up while a machine loaded tree trunks on to a transporter, worth watching though. A little further on a water official stopped his car and asked me (in French) the way to the lake. With my map, his bad English and my bad French I managed to send him in the right direction.

I left the forest and walked through the village of Sainte Marguerite. Just beyond the village GR5 turns left but there was a defensive tower marked on the map which formed part of the Maginot line. I could see it in the distance and it looked like there was a path to it, with no extra distance to walk. When I got to the turn off there was a big sign saying that it was a military area and keep out. Well, the government seems to be trying to align itself closer to Europe and I didn’t want to jeopardise negotiations by being accused of stealing French military secrets so I returned to GR5. I did pass a bunker and gun emplacement

I rejoined GR5 and most of the rest of the day was spent walking through a delightful wood. I climbed up to a clearing and on the way saw two more gun emplacements. I could see why the French thought this area was a potential route for the Germans to invade, the country is much more gentle than in the Ardennes. Unfortunately the Germans didn’t agree and bypassed the Maginot line to cross the Ardennes.

Lorraine is another area that has a complex history. It was a Duchy in the Holy Roman Empire. France annexed it in the 18th century. Then it became German after the Franco-Prussian war in 1871. After the First World War it was given back to France. Simples. European history summarised in one paragraph.

I climbed up to a clearing where I ate my lunch and had a power nap. Refreshed, I continued on

The path re-entered the forest and descended gently to Kedange and my bed for the night.

Distance walked 30km 19 miles

The third in a series on long days and my last in Luxembourg. I haven’t said much about the wildlife and that is because I did not see much. There are wild cats, stone marten (a mustelid), wild boar and otters but they are all very shy. Apparently the best time to see them is at the end of the day at the water’s edge when they come down to drink. I really enjoyed the variety of Luxembourg; the steep valleys, the forests in the north, the rock formations of Little Switzerland and the wide views from the vineyards above the Moselle.

There are three official languages in Luxembourg: French, German and Luxembourgish. In the North German was dominant but French became more common today as I approached the border. I think Luxembourgish is widely spoken but the people will address foreigners in French, German or English. The only Luxembourgish I learnt was “moien” which is a greeting.

I walked into Remich along the bank of the Moselle and through a small sculpture park

There was a swan sitting on a nest by the side of the cycle path

The only downside of today’s walk is that was nearly all on road. Otherwise there were excellent views again

Today I saw a couple of long distance walkers

Later I saw a man who was walking the Luxembourg section of GR5.

The other thing I noticed today is that there are regularly placed bug boxes in the vineyards

Presumably these are to attract pollinators.

The morning was hot and sunny. The walking was similar to yesterday. Walking between vineyards with great views over the Moselle valley, dropping down to pass through villages.

The Luxembougoise have got their gnomes to work rather than lazing in the garden like in England

I climbe a hill called the Felsberg. Near the top there is a statue of St. Donat, the patron saint of wine producers, guarding his supplicants

From here it was downhill to Remerschen then under a motorway bridge to Schengen. I could have walked about 200 metres to the bridge over the Moselle but GR5 goes westwards right around the town to enter it from the south. The Cicerone guide said there as a good view over the valley so I went the long way round. Schengen is hidden by trees, the town you can see is Perl, on the German side of the river

I walked down through Schengen, past the chateau (now a hotel) where the Schengen Agreement was signed

I crossed the bridge into Germany and found a supermarket to buy some food, I am staying in an Airbnb tonight and there are no facilities in Montenach

I walked down a cycle path towards Sierck-Les-Bains and at some point crossed the border into France. The path was not particularly interesting, I was separated from the river by trees and a railway line.

In Sierck GR5 meandered through the old town which was interesting. There is a ruined castle on the hill.

I left by walking for a short distance along a stream past a chapel built on the site of a medieval convent. There was then a steep walk up a residential road before I came to a path that led through woodland to Montenach

Distance walked 26km. 16 miles

I slept well in my hobbit hole. Comfy bed and they gave me sheets like those used in an albergue. I don’t know whether they are recyclable.. I got up at seven and went down to the bakery in town for breakfast and to buy a sandwich for lunch.

Grevenmacher used to be a walled town and there are a few remnants that can be seen

The way out of town led up some steps to a chapel. Along the way there were some modern sculptures depicting the stations of the cross. From the chapel, I walked uphill, first between vineyards and then through woodland. A clearing in the trees gave excellent views back to Grevenmacher.

This is called the route de vin for a good reason. The lower part of the valley is occupied by vineyards. Higher up there was forest, often on some cliffs.

GR5 spent most of the day on roads used by the vine growers to access vines. Carroll Dorgan, in the Cicerone guide, makes the point that a third of the vines are grown on slopes of thirty degrees or more and comments it must be very hard for the workers. It is certainly hard to walk up and down them with a rucksack!

All the vineyards had signs informing passers by who owned the vines. Some of them also stated the grapes that were being grown, mainly Riesling in the vineyards I walked through

The walking was strenuous because GR5 kept dropping to the valley floor to pass through villages, first Machtum then Ahn.

In many of the villages there were old grape presses by the side of the road or in people’s gardens.

After Ahn I climbed again first on roads and then on a seeming never ending flight of stone steps to get to the viewpoint at Koeppchen

There was then a steep descent to the village of Wormeldange with another steep climb up on the other side.

The next village was Ehnen. On the way down to the village there was a sign informing me of the grapes grown on this part of the valley

As most of the walking today was between vineyards there was little shade and I was pleased to find a bar open in Ehnen where I could get a (soft) drink.

After Ehnen there was more climbing up and down. There were always fantastic views over the Moselle valley. Eventually, I entered a forest and had a long gentle descent alongside a stream that meandered down to the valley. This was a protected woodland and a lot of the descent was on a boardwalk to prevent damage to the banks of the stream

I arrived in Remich and only had a short walk to Casa 49, an Italian restaurant opposite the Moselle where I was spending the night. Good food and a good view at dinner

Distance walked 31km 19 miles

Another sunny day in Luxembourg. I got an early start and followed the cycle path by the river to Born. I walked through the village and then returned to GR5 bywalking up a steep road between fields. I walked through a mixture of open fields and woodland until I approached Moersdorf. The oath lost height but at the entrance to the village I had a steep climb out of the valley and, almost immediately, the path descended steeply, crossed a small stream and then ascended again. Hard work!

Back in the sunshine, I came to an enormous quarry. The path stayed outside the fence, going round two sides of the quarry before re-entering woodland and losing height to pass underneath a motorway.

I missed the yellow rectangle and took a short detour to get back to the trail. In the middle of the track there was a fragment of jaw.

My initial impression was “I don’t want to meet one of those alive” but on reflection I think it is a wild boar. I don’t think there are any sabre tooth tigers left round here. I await an expert veterinary opinion.

I came out of the wood and entered my first vineyard

I descended to the main road. It looked like they had laid on a party for me but I was a day too late.

I now followed a cycle track next to the river until I came to a sign saying the track was closed and that there was a danger of death. Prudence being the better part of Valerie (to quote Roger McGough) I didn’t fancy the verge of the N10 so I crossed a bridge into Germany and followed a cycle path to the Wasserbillig bridge and returned into Luxembourg .

On a seat by the river was the rollerblader I saw in Echternach yesterday. He is Belgian and is hiking and camping but he thought it would be cool to bring rollerblades to use on cycle paths. He was right.

Wasserbillig is where the Sûre joins the Moselle

I now followed the bank of the Moselle for about 3km to Mertert.

I left the river and walked through a park and then climbed up into the hills. The afternoon’s walk was a mixture of woodland and open country walking. In one wood the path was closed. I had to follow a stream a long way downhill before I could cross it and then climbed up another steep hill on the other side. This must have added 2-3km on to my already long day.

By the time I got to Manternach I was tired so rather than cross another hill on GR5 I followed the road to Grevenmacher. On the way I passed what is thought to be an old dolmen

I carried on down the hill to Gravenmacher and the route du vin camp site and my hobbit hole for the night.