This was another lovely day.  The walking was much easier with only one significant climb, over the aptly named Long Mountain.  I stayed in the Dragon Hotel which is an old coaching Inn dating back to the mid 17^th century.  The ruins of Montgomery castle sit on a hill above the town. The castle was sacked by Cromwell during the civil war and the owners of the hotel believe that some of the beams and stone used to build the Inn come from the castle.  The hotel and the main street of Montgomery were pretty.

My calf was now getting fairly sore, especially towards the end of the day’s walk and it was keeping me awake at night but I decided to keep going.  I cut back to the ODP by walking through the Lymore Park estate. The house was demolished in 1931 and only two ornamental ponds remain, both were dry today.  I walked past the Montgomery Cricket Club, what a delightful setting in which to play the game.  The Club dates its origin to the 1847 when “eleven gentlemen of Montgomery” played Newtown. There is a history page on the club website.  This explains that wealthy landowners would often set up a cricket ground and get their tenants to play, sometimes also employing professionals.  They would challenge other landowners to matches, both for the sporting challenge and to bet on the outcome.

After the cricket ground I entered woodland to rejoin the dyke. The Dyke and the ODP ran northwards for a considerable distance but I was daydreaming. Solo walking does bring about a mental state somewhere between meditating and just letting your mind wander.  Anyway, instead of following the acorn signs along a faint field path I joined a more obvious path heading back to Montgomery.  This did afford me a good view of the castle. This was built by Henry III in the mid 1220s in response to the uprising by Llewellyn the Great and survived several attacks by both Llewellyn and his son, Daffyd.  It was a Royalist stronghold in the Civil War but fell to Cromwell in 1649.

I got almost as far as Montgomery before I looked at the map and realised my mistake. I returned to the ODP and continues northwards. I can see why Henry decided to build a castle here, it dominated the landscape to the west for several miles to come.

The path and Dyke crisscrossed the Welsh border, each time I crossed into Shropshire there was a “Welcome to Shropshire” sign. There was also a sign commemorating the battle of Montgomery which took place during the Civil War which was a crushing victory for the Parliamentarians.  As I have remarked elsewhere, the quality of the Dyke remnants varied throughout the day.

At Rownall farm I was briefly held up by a sheepdog who was rounding up the sheep and driving them across the path into the farmyard. I then walked past Devils Hole, a not very impressive dip in the ground, but it is the site where the earliest known freshwater fish fossils to be discovered in the UK were unearthed.

I met up with Johnathan, a teacher living in Sherborne.  It’s a small world, he used to work I Kingsbury, not far from where I was brought up in North London. I reminisced about swimming in the Lido which shut around the time I went to university.  The swimming pool is no more but Johnathan told me the site had re-opened as a sports centre. We decided to walk together for a while. The walk was through gently undulating hills, mainly sheep grazing land. Just before Forden we followed a road and got out first view of Long Mountain. We were looking at the southern end of a ridge that stretches northerly, away from us.

The path passes to the south east of Forden along an old Roman Road which ran from Wroxeter to a Roman fort near Forden. It is thought that this was built on an even older trackway. The path joined a minor road and we started the steep climb up Long Mountain. We me another Jogler heading south. The path left the road to enter woodland, still climbing.  I decided to stop for lunch and we parted company.

The path ran alongside an impressive portion of the Dyke.  The woodland forms part of the Leighton Estate.  This was owned by John Naylor. As part of the development he introduced a hydroelectric scheme (in the mid 1800s) and I walked past two of the ponds used to store water to drive the system. It was covered in duckweed.

After a brief descent the path stated to climb again up to Beacon Ring. The prehistoric hillfort is hidden by a grove of trees planted to celebrate the coronation of Elizaabeth II.  When first planted they spelled the initials E II R. It is thought that Henry Tudor mustered his army here on the way from Pembrokeshire to engage Richard III at Bosworth. A beacon was built on the hill in the 17^th century.  Now the wooded hillfort is accompanied by two radio mast stations.

I now started my descent to the Severn valley by walking through a woodland plantation before descending steeply through farmland and along lanes to Welshpool, my stopping place for the night.

This was a long day.  Firstly, this was a day of steep ups and downs.  Although the path does not climb above about 1200 feet, there was a total of more that 5500 feet of combined ascent and descent. Secondly, to find accommodation at the end of the day I had a long diversion into Montgomery.

I set off early, which meant I was unable to look round the Offa’s Dyke Centre in Knighton. I walked down to the river through a small park. A cat walked past me with its breakfast (a mouse) in its mouth.  The Welsh/English border runs through Knighton and there was an invitation to stand with one foot in Wales and one in England. I imagined it must have been interesting during lockdown when the rules were different in Wales and England.

I followed the pretty River Teme for a few hundred yards before crossing a footbridge and starting the first, steep, climb of the day up to the shoulder of Panpunton Hill. There were good views back to Knighton and the Black Mountains could be seen in the distance.

Once I was on top of the escarpment the walking was easy, over short grassland with flocks of grazing sheep to keep me company. I had a good view of the Knucklas railway viaduct.  The village of Knucklas has the dubious honour of being one of the Rotten Boroughs of the late 18^th Century. These were boroughs that were entitled to send two members to the House of Commons, despite most of the population having moved away (Old Sarum was another, it had a population of 7 who elected its 2 MPs).  This led to corruption as either the land owner would coerce or bribe the electorate to vote for him (there was no secret ballot then) or sell the seats to others for money. Eventually, these seats were abolished by reforming the electoral system in 1832.

A further climb took me to the top of Cwn-sanaham Hill from where there was an excellent panorama.  Here I was joined by another ODP walker (no suprise if you have followed my blogs, I forgot to write down his name).  We walked together for a few miles and I would see him several times over the next two days.

I was accompanied by the Dyke for most of today.  Like elsewhere, it varied from being a small mound, easily mistaken for an old field boundary, to a 12 foot high earthwork with a ditch.

We now descended steeply to a road passing the attractive Byrnorgan Cotttage, crossing a small hill before climbing steeply again to a plateau culminating on Llanfair hill. On the way a farmer had rounded up his sheep in a pen on the path the dip them.  His dogs were happy to let us through without shepherding us into the bath!

Here, the ODP joined the Jack Mytton Way. The Way is a 100 mile walk that crosses Shropshire (today’s walk was in Shropshire apart for the start and finish).  “Mad Jack” Mytton was around in the early 19^th Century.  He inherited an estate from his father that brought him an annual income equivalent to nearly £1 000 000 today.  He squandered his wealth on gambling, horseracing and hunting, eventually dying in a debtors prison at the age of 38.  There are several stories on the internet of his outrageous behavior which include taking 2000 bottles of port with him when he went to study at Cambridge, allowing his favourite horse to sleep in his living room and riding a bear at a dinner party at his ancestral home, Halston Hall (the bear bit him!).

My companion went on ahead as I am rather slow.

At one point another Lejogger passed me heading south on Day 60 of his quest.  The path then descended from Llanfair hill to reach a quiet lane with a further descent into the Clun valley. After crossing the river, with the village of Newcastle to my left I started to climb again.  I crossed a minor road and passed a sign telling me I was halfway. Near the sign was a water tap and, as it was another hot day, I was grateful to be able to fill my waterbottles.

There was now a tiring but beautiful walk over several hills, mainly passing through farmland with some light woodland, accompanied by the Dyke. After the hill of Hergan I descended to walk through Churchtown, which consisted of a church and a house.

I was now tired but there were three more steep hills to cross.  At the top of the first one, Edenhope Hill, there was a fine prospect across Shropshire with Stiperstones and the Long Mynd visible in the distance.

Eventually I descended into the Vale of Montgomery.  The path initially followed the Dyke across grazing land until it reached a lane at Drewins Farm. It then followed the lane before entering more farmland, eventually running through Mellington Wood, adjacent to a caravan site. After more open land I emerges on a road adjacent to the old Lodge of Mellington Hall.

At the Bromptom Bridge crossroads there was the sad sight of the closed Blue Bell Inn.  This was especially sad as it used to be the recommended stopping place for ODP walkers.  Instead I had to walk down the B 4385 into Montgomery.It was getting late and I was concerned would not get to the Dragon Hotel before it stopped doing food.  I set off at a good pace and walking fast on the hard surface aggravated the pain I had been getting in my calf.  I arrived in time for both food and beer. 

Kington is an old droving town, now a small market town.  The Swan, where I stayed last night, is next to the old market square.  The market was moved to a Victorian market all in the late 18^th Century. 

I saw the Americans when I went to but my lunch and we would continue to see each other intermittently over the course of the day. Dry weather had returned and I set off down a no through road by the pub to reach a path that dropped down to cross Back Brook .  I then climbed up across common land with sheep grazing between clumps of ferns to cross the shoulder of  Bradnor Hill. Here there were good views back to Hergest Ridge.

I crossed a golf course to re-enter common land with more sheep. I would pass many flocks of sheep over the next few days.

There had been no sign of the Dyke since before Pandy but it re-appeared near the top of Rushock Hill. At first the earthwork was not very impressive, it could have been mistaken from a field boundary, but the ditch was obvious. The Dyke would be my companion for most of the day.  Its height varied from being a low mound to a high bank.

As the Dyke got higher the path went along the top. I remarked to two dog walkers that I felt guilty that I was helping to erode the dyke by walking along it. At several places along the whole walk the main problem appeared to be badgers burrowing into it. There were excellent views across the hills and valleys to the west.

The path left the Dyke temporarily to wind round the eastern side of Herrock Hill and then dropped down to join a road and cross a bridge over Hindwell Brook.

I left the road to enter Burfa wood and passed Old Burfa Farm with its 15^th century manor hall although this was much restored in the 1970s. Within the wood the Dyke was particularly impressive with a high bank, carrying the path, and a deep ditch to the west. The map shows a large hillfort at the top of Burfa Hill but this was obscured by trees.

The Dyke and path climbed up through Granmer wood to pass over the shoulder of Evenjobb Hill where there were good views to the west over the Radnorshire Hills with Rhos Fawr being conspicuous. To the east I could see Prestaigne and the Malvern Hills a long way off.

After a short descent I began to climb again passing through Hilltop plantation before starting a long descent to the Lugg valley. As I approached the river I passed a walker with a full rucksack heading south.  He was one of three Lejoggers I saw on the southern half of ODP, all had started in John O’Groats and were heading south. This man said it was his first multiday trek, a challenging one to start with!

After crossing the river, the undulating nature of the path continued. I crossed Furrow hill, still with excellent views to both west and east.  I then climbed Hawthorn Hill which has a long fairly flat top.  Towards the northern end of the hill there is a monument dedicated to Sir Richard Price who was a 19^th century MP. The monument commemorated his role in bringing the railway to Knighton.

I descended from Hawthorn hill by passing through some scrubby woodland to cross a road.  Here there was a commemorative stone which didactically stated the Dyke was made in 757AD, the exact date of construction is not known.

The remainder of today’s walk involved a long descent across fields, accompanied by the Dyke, leading eventually to woodland, where it became very steep, and then into Knighton, almost half way along the Trail.

It was a wet day today. Hay on Wye was nice, even in the rain.  The village centre had narrow streets with a lot of independent shops , especially (no surprise!) bookshops.

There were a lot of nice looking cafes too, but I had to walk, so,  after buying a sandwich for lunch, I donned my wet weather gear and set off. I dropped down to cross the river Wye and then turned on to a riverside path.  This rose up a bank past several wooden cabins.  To keep them level the front of the cabins were raised on stilts. There were a lot of wooden sculptures.  There was a besom with a note saying to could borrow it for flying provided you return it. After the cabins the path dropped back down to the river.

As the valley widened I veered off to the north to cross the flood plain through fields. After about a mile the path climbed up to cross an A road. On a nicer day there would be good views from here along the Wye valley. I turned left along a narrow lane that passed steeply uphill the enter the wood of Bettwys Dingle. The path stayed just inside the wood so I had some shelter from the rain.  Eventually it headed deeper into the wood and descended to cross the Cabalfa Brook. I then continued through woodland to climb up to a lane.

The route then undulated over several small hills, alternating between lanes, field paths and an old green drove road. I met an American couple from Indiana who were over here doing the Path before going to see some friends in Ireland. In the village of Newchurch, there was a sign inviting walkers to drop into the church for coffee but, as it had now stopped raining, I decided to press on.   I walked through the village, but as soon as I got to the path that ascended on to Disgwylfa Common the rain returned.

The Cicerone guide says Disgwylfa Hill is one of the highlights of the day with wonderful views.  Indeed you could see for a long distance but all the surrounding hills were covered in mist.  The walk itself was very pleasant, gently uphill over short grass where sheep were grazing and between gorse outcrops before descending into the village of Gladstry. The Royal Oak was a welcome sight and I stopped for a drink. In one corner of the pub there was an indoor quoits board and a fixure list for the local league. I had no idea this game was still played but The Quoits Pub and League web site sinformed me that there are still active leagues in the Welsh borders, the North-East and East Anglia.

The rain had stopped when I emerged but it remained heavily overcast. Hergest Ridge was the only obstacle between me and Kington. 

I had wanted to walk on Hergest Ridge since the release of Mike Oldfield’s second album. After Tubular Bells he moved to the environs of Hergest Ridge (to a house on the edge of Bradnor Hill which I will cross tomorrow) and the second, of his first three thematically related, album bears its name.  The views were limited from the top of the hill by the low cloud but it was a fine walk.  Rather incongruously, there is a clump of monkey puzzle trees (more correctly, Chilean Pine trees) near the top.  There is also a circular racecourse around the summit.  The oval track is still visible as a path and dates from the 19^th century.

There was a long descent down the hill and through woodland towards Kington.  I passed Hergest Croft which has a well known garden, which I was not tempted to visit with more rain coming in. I even managed to resist the tea shop.  The croft is reputed to be haunted by a large dog; perhaps the reason for the dog on the album cover?  I continued my decsent down the road to the Swan Inn in Kington. I had sustained a mild muscle strain in Scotland a few weeks before I started this walk.  Four days of 14-17 miles and undulating hills had aggravated it and I was now needing to take ibuprofen to help me sleep at night and was getting ice packs from the pub landlords to try to settle the swelling.

Pandy to Hay on Wye 17 miles

This was going to be a long day so I made an early start. As well as the distance, there was about 2200 feet of ascent and descent involving crossing the Black Mountains.  There was no sign of Offa’s Dyke today but the highlight was the ridge over Hatterall Hill. The path started opposite the B and B. I crossed the river Honddu and then the railway line and started climbing up to Hatterall Hill.  Next to the path was an 11^th Century Motte of a Norman castle, now covered with trees.

The first mile or so was along a quiet lane which eventually became a track by an iron age fort.

There was a good view back to Skirrid Fawr.  Red Kite are fairly common here and one flew overhead as I passed the fort. The path climbed steadily but easily up Hatterall Hill and after an hour or so I was at the first of three trig point.  The English Welsh border runs along the top of the broad ridge and there were great views into both countries.

The Black mountains and the Brecon Beacons are home to the Welsh Pony breed of pony.  They used to be used as pit ponies but most of the horses on the moor are feral. I saw several small herds over the course of the day.

The ridge is about 10 miles long and provides great views to the East and West as well along the length of the ridge.  After a while the ruined Llanthony Priory could be seen in the Vale of Ewyas on the Welsh side of the ridge.  This was an Augustinian priory from the 12^th century until the dissolution of the monasteries in the mid 16^th century. 

I crossed two more minor hills, with trig points along the top.  There are several prehistoric cairns and burial mounds along the path.  Across the Ewyas valley someone had cut bizarre shapes in the heather

Towards the end of the ridge I reached the highest point of both the ridge and Offa’s Dyke path.  It is a featureless mound, with no cairn or trig point to mark its significance. 

The ridge is a broad plateau at this point so the views were not good either. In fact, it was difficult to determine when the path actually stopped climbing and began to descend. The path descended and the hills to the north came into view.  The route splits for a while.  One branch descends along the east side of the hill but I continued along the ridge to Hay Bluff, with its trig point adorned with dragons. Here the views were superb, especially along the northern escarpment of the Brecon Beacons. Apparently you can see the Malvern and Shorpshire hills from here but today they were hidden by the heat haze.

There was now a steep descent down to the Gospel Pass car park. The pass is probably named after a group of crusaders who came here in the 12th century but there is a myth that St Paul preached here. It also claims to be the highest road pass in Wales.

I walked along the side of the road for a few hundred yards.Hay on Wye came into view.  I descended across common land to enter woodland. By now I had drunk all my water and was quite thirsty.  As I passed Cadwgan farm I saw a sign inviting me to refill my water bottles for which I was very grateful.  Suitably refreshed I continued my descent across farmland into Hay-on-Wye and the Old Black Inn.

Monmouth to Pandy 18 miles

Today was spent in Wales.  Monmouth is a major market own situated adjacent to the Monmow and Wye rivers..  It has a ruined Norman castle that I did not have time to visit.  Henry V was born in Monmouth castle, and the square in front of the Shire Hall is named Agincourt square after Henry’s famous victory over the French. It was iniatially a Royalist stronghold in the Civil war but was captures and sacked by the parliamentarians.

I left Monmouth by crossing the Monmow river, which is a tributary of the Wye, over Monmow bridge.  This is the last fortified bridge left in Britain.  It was originally built to protect the river crossing from the continual skirmishes between the English and Welsh in the Middle Ages. However, in the Civil War the Parliamentarians simply crossed the river upstream and took the town.  In addition to being a defensive barrier, it was used as a toll bridge.

I walked down a road that passed through a housing estate and after about half a mile this became a path running along the edges of small fields bordered by hedges or trees.  These are much more attractive to walk along compared to the enormous fields that are now present in a lot of arable farms. The scenery consisted of rolling, low hills many of which were tree capped. 

The path then climbed steeply up through King’s wood, named after Edward III.  I passed a boundary stone dating from 1857.  At the top of the hill there was a small clearing but tops of trees obscured any view. The path descended and about half way down the hill I came out of the trees to enter farmland.  After a short walk along a road through the hamlet of Hendre I re-entered farmland. I passed the site of Grace Dieu Abbey. This was often attacked by Welsh raiders and was finally dissolved by Henry VIII. No buildings remain but water channels, called least, and ponds used to supply the abbey with water are still visible. The 17th century Parc Grace Dieu farm could be seen across the valley. 

There was a wooden seat placed, almost randomly, in a field so I stopped for a rest and a hitchhiker settled on my rucksack.

The path continued through fields to the hamlet of Llanfihangel Ystern Llewern.  I continued through fields and a cider orchard, an important crop around here, to reach a road which dropped down to the village of Llantilio Crosseny. I caught my first sight of the Black Mountains. The Cicerone guide suggests walking through the village which was pretty. It was very hot by now but the village pub shut years ago.  I rejoined the main path by joining a road by the site of Hen Gwrt (the Old Court).  There is no house now but the moat is still present, although it was stagnant and clogged with weeds.

I then walked through fields to cross another low hill.  I reached the Hog’s Head pub.  This primarily opens for functions but, as I arrived, the owner drove up.  “Do you want a drink?” he asked.  He had been to Abergavenny to get provisions. He now opens during the day when he is around to cater for walkers, so if you are passing you may be lucky. A cold pint of beer later, I was feeling refreshed and got back on the road.  The road climbed a long hill to arrive at the White Castle.

The castle was originally built after the Norman invasion of Wales when it was probably an earthwork.  It was modified and fortified by subsequent Lords and formed part of the “three Castles” guarding the Monnow valley.  It was renamed the White Castle after white plaster rendering was applied to its exterior. It commands extensive views over the surrounding countryside

The Path had been diverted because of a collapsed footbridge so I missed the dubious pleasure of Caggle Street, wich is said to mean “the road of sheep’s dung.” I therefore cannot comment on the accuracy of the name, although sheep farming is common practice here. The path now undulated up and down through fields and along farm tracks. I passed Cwn farm where there was an 18^th century cider house that is sometimes opened to the public, but not today.

After another short, steep climb I arrived at the village of LLangattock Lingoed.  I resisted the temptation of the Hunters Moon Inn but did take time to inspect the remnants of  medieval wall paintings in the village church.

I joined a path going around the back of the village and was soon climbing again into the Fullbrook valley.  From the top of the hill, there were good views back along the valley and I had a good view of Skirrid Fawr and the Sugarloaf.

There was now an easy descent to the village of Pandy.  I was staying in the Lancaster Arms guest house.  This used to be one of two village pubs but the owners, Sandra and Keith (and Bob the dog), who were excellent and entertaining hosts, run it as a small B and B, mainly for walkers doing the ODP.  Peter and Sue, who I have met several times along the path were also staying there. They have a rest day in Hye on Wye so I will not see them after tomorrow.  After a nice dinner the six of us sat chatting and drinking beer.  An excellent evening!

Chepstow to Monmouth 17-22miles

The Cicerone guide estimates this to be about 17 miles but the walkmeter app on my phone measured it as 22 miles.  I left Chepstow by returning to the bridge, crossing back into England and climbing back up the concrete path, continuing up the hill past where I had joined it from Tutshill (about a mile). There was a good view across the river to the castle and it was obvious how difficult it would be for would be invaders to take the castle from this side.  Towards the top of the hill I turned into a field and passed the base of an old windmill, now partially restored to contain a garden seat.

The OS maps indicate this was an old lookout tower, but there is no evidence that this was so. I walked along the top of a large quarry and then along a lane that passed some large houses on the outskirts of Woodcroft.

The path re-entered woodland to arrive at the viewpoint called Wintour’s Leap.  This is said to be the spot where the Royalist Sir John Wintour escaped the Parliamentarians by galloping over the cliffs. As the cliffs are high and sheer it is difficult to believe that he could achieve this and live (an information board says that the cliffs were not as steep in the 1600s). It is now a popular rock-climbing spot.

The path continued through fields and along lanes until it entered the attractive Worgan woods where it joined some low remnants of the dyke.  Like most of the woodland on the walk, the wood consisted mainly of deciduous trees so there was plenty of undergrowth and the greenery and the birdsong made pleasant walking.  However, views across the Wye valley were few and far between.

Eventually I arrived at the Devil’s Pulpit with excellent views over the ruins of Tintern Abbey.  This was a 13^th Century Cistercian abbey that was a victim of Henry VIII reformation.  There is a myth that Satan preached from the rock to tempt the monks to forsake Christianity. 

Just below the path, in the trees, there was a tree that appeared to grow out of the rock.  I decided to have a rest and a few minutes later two ladies called down to me.  “Are you holding a pagan ritual” they asked?  Reassured I wasn’t they joined me. According to their walking guide the tree was a site for pagan ceremonies.  I can reassure the reader that no rituals took place, and after a rest we went our separate ways.

The path continued through the woods called Passage Grove, alongside an impressive section of the dyke.  In a lot of the woodland on the walk the dyke appears at risk of being undermined by burrowing badgers.  In some places you walk along the top of the dyke so presumably there is a risk from walkers as well.

I emerged from the wood at Madgett Hill where there were good views up the valley. The route now splits with one way crossing hills through farmland but I chose the low level route to follow the Wye.  I descended to pass through the village of Brockweir. This used to be an important centre of trade.  Large boats could navigate up the Wye as far as here where the cargo would be transferred to or from barges which were hauled up river by teams of men called bow hauliers.   There was a boatbuilding industry here as well.  Now it is a very quiet village.

I now followed the Wye for about 2 miles as far as Bigsweir Bridge, where the alternative routes merged. I followed a lane uphill for about a quarter of a mile.  There was now a long walk through woodland, accompanied by sections of the Dyke. Occasionally there were views across the forest of Dean but mostly I was surrounded by trees.  Never mind, woodland walking is peaceful and there would be plenty of opportunities for expansive views later in the walk.

Eventually the path emerged from the trees and descended steeply to the quiet village of Lower Redwood. This was been an important centre for iron, copper and tin mining from Roman times until the mid 20th century.  Tin mining was the main industry here from the mid 18^th Century and the tin plate was reputed to be the thinnest and finest you could get. The tin was mined here until 1961. It was originally transported away by barges downriver.  The slag from the mines was recycled to produce black bricks that can be seen in the walls of buildings along the Wye valley.

It was hot and I was quite tired by now, so I was please to be able to buy an icecream and an energy drink from the village shop, so many have shut over the last 20 years or so.  I now made my first route finding mistake.  Someone has put up acorn signs (the acorn is a waymark on all English and Welsh National Trails; it is a thistle in Scotland) directing would be buyers into a residential estate.  I followed this without checking the map (schoolboy error!) and had got a quarter of a mile uphill before I recognised my mistake. I was soon back on track, leaving Lower Redbrook and re-entering Wales by a steep country lane which then became a farm track running between fields.  I walked along the edge of Harper’s Grove before heading into trees as I approached the Kymin.

The Kymin is a hill now owned by the National Trust.  As well as offering excellent views over the Wye valley there are two buildings of historical note.  One is the Naval Temple, which was built in 1800 “to perpetuate the names of those noble admirals who distinguished themselves by their glorious victories for England….”  At that time it was Georgian fashion to travel up the Wye and the Kymin was visited by Admiral Nelson in 1802.  His victory at the Battle of the Nile is commemorated on the monument and there is evidence he breakfasted at the Round House on the hill which was built in 1794 for members of the Kymin club and notables who lived in Monmouth to dine or picnic there and admire the views.

I now descended through woodland into Monmouth and the Punch House Inn.

Tuesday 24 June 2.5 miles.

The journey from Manchester to Chepstow is only about three and a half hours, so I decided to travel down on the morning, have lunch in Chepstow and look round the castle.  There is nowhere to stay in Sedbury so I could get a bus to the start of the walk and return to Chepstow via Offa’s Dyke Path (ODP).

Chepstow is a small, attractive Welsh town, lying close to the English border and bounded on its east side by the river Wye. There were a lot of independent shops and I found a nice deli to sit outside and enjoy a hummus and salad sandwich and watch the world go by.  There were brass plaques on the pavement outside many of the shops detailing their past ownership and use. At intervals there were aphorisms or lines of poetry engraved in brass on the pavement.  I passed Oliver Cromwell house, with the date May 11 1642 outside.  The date is when the castle fell to the Parliamentarians and it is claimed Cromwell slept in the house.  After lunch I walked to the castle, which lies on top a cliff on the west bank of the Wye and dominates the town. 

Construction of the castle was started in 1067 by the Normans in their bid to subjugate Wales.  It was held by various favourites of the reigning king and extended over the next 300 years.  It was a royalist stronghold during the Civil War, but after the war was allowed to fall into ruin.  The old keep doors have been dated to the late 12th Century and are on display at the castle. 

It was considered impregnable as it had natural defences of the high Wye cliffs around its east side and was built on solid rock so it could not be undermined.

I caught the bus to Buttington Tump and walked down through fields to the river estuary.  There was a good view of the original Severn Crossing (now the M48) as well as the footings of the pier used for a ferry crossing before the bridge was built.  I took a short walk along the estuary edge, beneath the Sedbury cliffs, to look for fossils on the beach.  There were a lot of fossillised shells but I was unable to find any ammonites or other fossils.

It was now time to start the walk proper.  I climbed up through woodland to the top of the cliffs to find the stone marking the official start of the ODP. 

Immediately, I was walking alongside the Dyke. 

I followed this through fields to Sedbury, which is really a suburb of Chepstow, lying on the eastern (English) side of the Wye.  I wondered whether the bridge was patrolled to stop the burghers of Chepstow crossing to Sedbury during the latter stages of lockdown, when the English rules were relaxed before the Welsh.

The path now passed alongside houses before crossing the main road near the bridge.  It then passed alongside the houses of Tutshill before entering woodland.  There were tanatalising views of the castle across the river through the trees.  I then descended steeply down a tarmacked path to join the B4228 to cross the old bridge back into Wales and Chepstow.

The Offa’s Dyke long distance path is 177 miles long and runs from Sedbury Cliffs on the Severn estuary to Prestatyn on the Irish sea. Offa was King of Mercia from 757-796 AD. Little is known about the Dyke. The first reference to it in contemporary literature was not until about 100 years after its construction when the biographer Asser described ” a wall being built from sea to sea.” It is not even clear whether the complete wall was built, about 80 miles of it are still visible today, ranging from a 3 metre high earth bank and ditch to a low mound.

It is also not certain why it was built. At the time, there were continual battles with the Welsh on the other side of the border so it was originally thought its purpose was as a defensive barrier. Offa was a very powerful and rich king and some historians now believe that he built it to mark the western boundary of his land rather than as a barrier to Welsh incursions. There are a lot of articles on the Web if you want to investigate this further.

The path does not religiously follow the Dyke as it takes in the high ground of the Black Mountains and turns north west, away from the Dyke, near Llangollan to cross the Clywdian Mountains.

The route crosses and recrosses the Welsh border. Much of the walk is in the Welsh Marches, the area of Wales conquered by the Norman Kings where they built defensive castles such as at Chepstow. The more north-easterly portion of Wales remained under Welsh control and was know as Welsh Wales.

I used the Cicerone book by Mike Dunn as my guide, it comes complete with strip maps so, as a bit of a Luddite regarding electronic maps, I did not need to buy paper ones. Most of the stages were based on the Guide, although I needed to detour at several points to find accommodation. Sadly, several of the pubs mentioned in the guide have closed so you do need to check with up to date sources as to where refreshment and accommodation is available en route. I think all of the shops mentioned in the guide are still open but village shops are very much under threat as well.

My usual rules applied, once started I had to walk the entire route. If I did use public transport (which I didn’t) I had to return to the same point. Although the highest point on the walk is only about 550 metres there are a lot of ascents and descents, some of which are quite steep, so you do need to be fit. Waymarking is excellent, but some of the walking is over moorland so you do need a map and compass and the ability to use them in case visibility is poor.

Where I have made notes of historical interest, these derive from the following:

Mike Dunn’s Cicerone guide

Jon Gower: The History of Wales

Various Information boards seen en route

Various historical web sites about individual places. I have tried to avoid Wikipedia unless I can corroborate the quote from another official site.

I walked the Path in June 2022. At present, I am hoping to revamp the website so I made notes as I went along but the blogs have been typed in July 2022.