Approximate distance 26km

We had a communal breakfast this morning. There was bread and freshly warmed croissant (huge!) as well as jams and yoghourt for those that wanted. It was very enjoyable spending the evening with this group of perigrinos and seeing them on the way the last few days. We are all stopping in different places tonight but will probably meet up again over the next few days.

The Albergue is the blue building. The larger house is a small hotel.

I set off in sunshine . There is still a slight chill to the early morning air, it is still April after all. I walked down the lane to the river. The first kilometre or so was flat, around the edge of Markina. I continued along the river for a couple of kilometres.

After about 3km I arrived at the small village of Iruzubieta. I crossed the river by a road bridge. Now the hard work of the day started. A track led uphill, away from the river. Views over the surrounding hills soon opened up. Ahead, I could see the village of Ziortza-Bolibar and the Monasterio de Zenarruza.

I stopped half way to the village, enjoyed the view back down the valley and chatted to Angela on the phone, waving to the pilgrims as they passed. I then continued my ascent to the village of Ziortza. Simon Bolivar’s ancestors came from here, hence the suffix. (He was a military leader and politician who instigated the break up of the South American Spanish empire).

I left the village on the ancient pilgrims path up to the monastery

I got a real sense of history imagining the tens of thousands of pilgrims that must have walked up this road over the last thousand years or so. I came to a modern road just before the monastery and then climbed some steps to enter the precinct. The cloisters are the oldest part of the monastery.

The church itself dates from the 15th century and has a very impressive altarpiece.

My Dutch friends were resting in the garden and planning to stay in the Albergue here. I had already booked accommodation further on so I said goodbye and continued uphill. (I saw Karen a few days later. She said that there were only 5 monks but the chanting at vespers was very atmospheric).

This part of the route coincides with an old trading road used to transport wine, fish and, later, iron across Spain. Eventually the path descended steeply through forest to the town of Muntibar. There was some sort of market in progress with a barbecue, cake and other stalls. I bought some cake, so much that I shared it with the young German group that I had seen on and off for a few days. As I was about to leave a folk band started to play, their music reminded me of the Albion Band.

I nearly missed the turn uphill after Muntibar. Once safely on the right road I followed a mixture of roads, paths and tracks over the hills, between fields and through small villages. There is a saying”the Camino will provide.” At one path junction I could not see the arrow. I stopped for a drink and when I looked up there was the signpost. So the Camino does provide!

It had been a lovely day up to now but as I descended to Guernica it began to rain

The shower did not last long. I found my hotel, showered and changed and went out to get something to eat. I really fancied a proper meal but it was Sunday and everything was closed. I found a bar that was open and filled up on pinxtos and beer.

Approximate distance 24km

Another early start. I left the Albergue at 7a.m. and crossed the road to a bar where I got a coffee and a croissant with a French peregrine, we saw each other several times but never exchanged names. It was raining so I donned my wet weather gear and set off.

The Albergue was almost full last night so there were several groups heading along the Camino. I crossed the railway and the river Deba. The steep climb started almost straight away, initially along a road but later on a dirt track before one again returning to road. On the way I passed an old lime kiln.

The rain was quite heavy and I was pleased to arrive at the Ermita del Calvario which had a covered verandah where we could find shelter.

A steady stream of peregrinos who had stayed in Deba arrived to take shelter or walk past. One of the social aspects of a Camino is the number of people you meet. Most are from Europe or the USA but you will see people from all over the world. Sometimes you greet them with a “buen Camino,” sometimes you walk with them for a few hours or a day. If you want to be on your own you just say so, no one takes offence.

I carried on along paved roads. I passed the Albergue I was hoping to reach last night. I was pleased I didn’t try to get there, it would have been another 2 hours uphill. The rain stopped and the sun came out. I even unzipped my long legs and walked in shorts.

I arrived in the village of Olatz. The. Bar was open and I stopped, along with about 20 other peregrinos for coffee and a tortilla sandwich.

I continued on my way, first on the road which began to climb steeply and then on dirt paths that continued to climb through light woodland and between fields. Eventually I reached the Collado de Arno, at 618metres the highest point on the Camino so far.

I now began the descent down to Markin-Xemein. As I walked the cloud returned and began to thicken. I could hear the sound of thunder getting nearer. I got my waterproofs on just in time before the storm hit. There was a strong wind, rain and hail. Fortunately, I was now in woodland so had some protection against the weather. By the time I got to the bottom of the hill (about 3km) the sun was back out.

I walked round the outskirts of the town of Markina-Xemien. There was a serious football match in progress. The striker was nearly through on goal but fouled the defender trying to get through. That was the last kick of the game, I cannot tell you who won but the small crowd seemed happy.

I crossed the main road into town to arrive at the delightful Albergue Intxauspe. The accommodation was excellent. There was a single dormitory with widely spaced beds (even better, no one snored). The hospitalero (warden) was really friendly and looked after us well. We had a 3 course dinner with wine for 12 euro, sitting at two communal tables and a good time was had by all.

Approximate distance 22km

This was a hard but rewarding day’s walk. The Cicerone guide indicates that there is about 850 metres of ascent (and, as both the start and finish points are by the sea, descent). I set off early, at 7:30am.

There is a church across the road from my accommodation. Apparently there is a pilgrim’s tomb in it. The pilgrim concerned was caught stealing and, as punishment, he was drawn and quartered and his remains were left on the Camino as a warning to others.

To be hung, drawn and quartered was a particularly nasty medieval torture and execution. The victim was hung from the neck but cut down while still alive. He (women were burned at the stake instead) was then emasculated. A sword was used to remove the entrails and, finally, the (by now presumably dead) body was beheaded and cut into four pieces which were displayed as a warning.

Note to self: keep all credit card receipts.

The Camino leaves Zarautz via a medieval cobblestone path starting just above the church. While I was checking this was the right path a Dutch pilgrim (Karen) joined me. We set off up the steep path together.

There were good views back to Zarautz. As we ascended higher we could see the mountains inland as well as back along the coast.

The cobbles did not last long. The path became a gravel track and passed through vineyards and between fields. Initially we lost sight of Geltaria behind the headland but it came back into view as we ascended higher and we could see the harbour with the “mouse” rock behind. We entered a eucalyptus wood. The bark on the trees has a strange spiral arrangement. There was no aroma but when I crushed a leaf in my hand I could clearly get the eucalyptus smell.

After the wood there was a field of horses who had cow bells round their necks, something I have not seen before.

The path descended between fields, back to sea level, to the town of Zumaia. I parted company with Karen and stopped for a toasted sandwich and coffee. After refreshments I climbed up through the old town. Halfway up some steps I met the Welsh couple (Richard and Elin; their first language is Welsh) I saw a couple of days ago as well as Karen.

We followed a gravel track, past some Buddhist prayer flags. The path undulated up and down, between fields with good views over the surrounding hills. We parted company when I stopped to eat an apple. I turned off the “official” Camino to join GR121 to drop down to the sea. This area is an important site for the geological phenomenon called flysh. I do not fully understand the geology but there are only a few sites like this in the world. Flysh occurs when mountains form (in this case, the Pyrenees) and the adjacent rocks are submerged in a shallow sea. The upheaval that creates the mountains causes the layers of sedimentary rock to form in vertical strata as you can see in the images.

As I got here there was a heavy rain shower. To leave the beach I had to climb and then descend a very muddy area. My boot soles got clogged with mud and I was sliding everywhere. Fortunately I got out of the area unharmed. There was then a long flat segment after which I had to climb steeply up to a road. By now I was very tired. GR121 went over another hill but I descended the road into Deba. My original plan had been to walk to the next Albergue so I could reach a monastery with an albergue at the end of the next day’s walk. I felt the extra 5km and 200 metres of ascent was too much and I checked in to the albergue in Deba.

I met Karen again in the tourist centre, where we had to register for the Albergue. There was another Dutchman (Boz I think) and a man from Surrey (name forgotten). We settled into the Albergue and then went out to get something to eat. I am determined to get better at remembering names!

Approximate distance 22km

It had rained overnight and it was still drizzling this morning. I had intended a prompt start but dallied over breakfast. I then spent sometime finding a shop to sell me a sandwich. Then I decided to put the rain cover on the rucksack but discovered the draw cord had retracted into its channel and it took a while to sort out. So I finally got going about 09:30. On the promenade there was an ornate clock and, unusually a barometer.

I walked to the end of the promenade then through a short tunnel that had artwork on its ceiling. It reminded me of a psychedelic tunnel Tim and I once skied through in La Plagne.

On the other side of the tunnel was a small but pretty park. I walked through the park and then joined a road that began to climb up Mount Igueldo. The road does a series of loops but there are steps which take almost a straight line up the hill. The Camino does not go right to the summit but there were good views back to San Sebastián.

There was now a long section of predominantly tarmac walking with some views over the sea, the road passed between fields and scattered houses. Every so often I would pass other perigrinos or they would pass me. Usually we would just extend a “buen Camino” greeting or sometimes a short chat.

Eventually the Camino entered woodland and I left the road to take a stony path. There were large cobbles in places. I felt that this must be medieval pilgrimage path and, indeed, I soon passed a board informing me that this section was paid for by a duke sometime in the 12th century

I got a sense of history walking along this path, similar to walking along some of the Roman roads in upland England (but not when driving along Watling Street, the A5; I will revise this opinion when I see a chariot coming the other way).

This was a delightful path to follow, through woodland and between fields. It was sometimes stony and sometimes grassy. There were a few other pilgrims of various nationality on the path. The young people I saw yesterday had stopped for a drink. It turns out they are from Germany. They have a limited time to walk so are just going to see how far they get.

There was a couple of Frenchmen with a chihuahua, I am not sure the dog will make it all the way; later in the afternoon it was being carried ( and, when I edited this 4 days later, I haven’t seen them since).

Eventually the path reached a road by a coffee shop ran by a religious sect called the 12 Tribes. Coffee was “donativo” which means you pay what you can afford or what you think it is worth. When you stop for coffee or a snack there are usually other pilgrims to chat.

I only followed the road for a short distance before turning off on to another well preserved medieval path that descended steeply to the village of Orio. I walked under the main A8 road.

Just before the village I passed the Ermita de San Martin de Tours

Apparently this is the style of old small churches on the Spanish Plata. Some authorities think that at one time this was used as a leprosy hospital. There were the remains of a small wall to the left of the Ermita. It is thought this is all that is left from the Seroral house, used as a residence for the serora (female sextons) who were responsible for the upkeep of the Ermita.

I walked down through the narrow streets of Orio. There were quite a few houses dating back to the seventeenth century.

I crossed the river on a bridge and followed a road out of Orio. Soon this started to climb steeply out of the valley. Near the top there was an unusual religious symbol. I think “bide” is Basque. One source on the internet says it means “truth” or “belief.” Another source says it means “the way” and the waymarks are labelled Donejakue Bidea. So, it could be a direct translation of “the way of St James” or mean the truth St James. Theologians please discuss.

It now started to rain again so rather than take the longer (but said to be prettier) GR121 path down to the sea shore I stayed on the Camino that followed the road down to Zarautz. I then discovered my Pension was on the far side of town. Oh well! Less far to walk tomorrow.

Later, when it had stopped raining I took a walk on the promenade. I had a view of “The Mouse” a little island off Getaria.

The beach is said to be the longest in the Basque Country and is very popular with surfers. Several sculptures are installed on the promenade.

My host recommended bar to me where I could get some food, a good choice. Basque separatism is still an important cause and the server tried to teach me how to order in Euskara.

Approximate distance 10km

I had a leisurely start today, knowing that I would reach San Sebastián by lunchtime. I left the B and B and walked to a small landing stage and took the ferry across the estuary.

I was joined on the ferry by a group of young German walkers, On the west side, I followed the river downstream to reach some steps. I climbed steeply up the steps (there were about 300) until I reached a road near a lighthouse

This is built on the Witches’ rocks from where spells were said to have been cast in the 17th century to cause the many shipwrecks that occurred on this part of the coast.

The road ended near here and I joined a path leading along the cliff edge through woodland. I followed this path along the side of Mount Ulia all the way to San Sebastián. Although it was cloudy visibility was much better than yesterday and I could see the French Coast across the Bay of Biscay. There was good cliff scenery as well

I met a couple from Boston walking with a guide from San Sebastián to Pasajes. The guide said that heavy rain had been forecast for today but it remained dry. I also kept seeing the group who crossed the estuary with me.

Eventually I came to a fork in the path. The young people went on the “official” Camino Route, which joined a road but I was enjoying my walk in the woods so I took the G121 branch that continued to follow the cliffs. This was slightly longer and there were more ascents and descents but I was rewarded with a view towards San Sebastián and the Picos mountains.

Soon I came to a crossing track where there was an Australian man looking at the signpost. He is also walking the Camino and stayed in Pasajes last night at the albergue. He was a little slower than me and I pressed on.

A little further on I met a couple walking the other way. They had flown in to San Sebastián from Virginia, although they originate from Norfolk. They are walking part of the Camino and I might see them tomorrow on the way to Zarautz.

Eventually the path went steeply downhill to rejoin the Camino. Shortly afterwards it descended down some steps and into San Sebastián.

I walked along the first beach to enter the old city. San Sebastián, or Donostia to give it its Basque name, was sacked by the British during the Napoleonic wars so most buildings are less than 200 years old. Nevertheless it was nice wandering round the narrow streets if the old city and the sandstone frontage of the older buildings was attractive.

Approximate distance: 16km

I arrived in brilliant sunshine yesterday but it was raining when I got out of bed so it was wet weather gear from the start today. I walked through the centre of Irun, which lies on the border with France on the Bay of Biscay. I bought a sandwich and then left the town on the main road. Navigation was easy, it was not long before I saw my first yellow arrow

These were painted on lamp posts or on the road. Navigation, so far, has been easy. I you do not see a yellow arrow for a few hundred metres you have probably missed a turn! Sometimes there were shell signs

I am in Basque country so signage is bilingual, Spanish and Euskara.

I followed the busy main road to cross the Amuteko canal and then took a path by the canal that led to a tarmac road. I climbed uphill past fields and occasional houses. I received my first “buen Camino,” the traditional greeting from two Spaniards from Barcelona who overtook me. It was now raining heavily.

After the last house the road lost its surface but continued to climb fairly steeply. The rough track finally emerged at a road by the Santuario de Guadeloupe

There were two boats suspended from the ceiling near altars. Possibly a reference to St James whose body is said to arrived by boat from the Holy Land? There are meant to be good views from here, over the bay of Biscay and towards the Pyrenees. I could see back to Hondaribbia and across the estuary into France and the town of Hendaye but the views were limited by the cloud.

I now had a choice of paths. The rain had lessened to a drizzle so, in the hope that the cloud would lift, I decided to take the “Purgatorio” route along the top of the ridge. In fact, this was not like purgatory at all. There was a very steep ascent of about 100 metres vertical height but after this section the going got easier.

I was now in mist. Navigating was easy with a clear path and regular yellow arrows. Several herds of ponies appeared out of the mist, apparently they are a specific breed, the Pottoka ponies of Euskal Herria (the Euskara name for the Basque county).

I reached the first of 5 towers, built in the 19th century during the Carlist civil wars. I know little about Spanish history but I think the Carlist wars were a succession of disputes over the Royal Succession, not dissimilar to the English Civil War.

This tower was almost complete but three of the others were just mounds of earth. I now had intermittent views over the surrounding countryside and out to sea.

I continued uphill, past a prehistoric standing stone. I passed an old fort and finally reached the top of the ridge at Mount Allerru (547metres). At last I had a good, if cloudy view.

The path now descended into woodland. I had seen several pilgrims today. Two wished me “buen Camino” as they passed and we realised we were all British. Most peregrinos end the day in San Sebastián so I may not see them again.

Eventually I reached a road and after a few yards turned on to a quiet lane that descended to Pasajes de San Juan where I had decided to stop for the day. My hotel looked out over the estuary. The village is quite small, most of the buildings are either side of a narrow cobbled road. Sometimes the road passed under the houses. The author Victor Hugo lived here for a while.

There are several pilgrimage routes across Spain that converge on the cathedral at Santiago de Compostella. The remains of the apostle St. James were said to have been transported across the Mediterranean and to have been buried in Galicia. In the 9th century a hermit had a vision and unearthed the bones of St James. Subsequently, the cathedral of Santiago de Compostella was built on this site. A more detailed description of the legend and the subsequent development of Santiago as a pilgrimage site are described in the Cicerone guide.

When pilgrimages to Santiago first started, most of Spain was under Moorish rule with Christian Spain being limited to the north. At the time the Royal Court was situated at Oviedo and it is thought the early pilgrimages started from there. This is now called the Primitivo route that I will join in a few weeks. Early pilgrims from overseas then developed other routes across north Spain, extending into Western Europe (I walked along part of a route where it coincided with GR5 in Belgium).

Today, the most popular Camino is the Frances, the subject of the film The Way (well worth a watch, as much about the interpersonal relationships between the characters as about the Camino itself). A new Australian film The Way, My Way has just been premiered and may be released in Europe later this year. My interest in the Caminos started after talking to fellow skiers on a Ski Club GB trip a couple of years ago. As a secular walker, I wanted to walk the coastal Norte route which runs from Irun to Santiago and then switch to the Primitivo which traverses the mountains of East Galicia.

If I had continued GR5 this year I would have had to carry a tent and, with my recent back and knee problems, I wanted to avoid this. The Camino routes have the advantage of a network of hostels, called Albergues, that are limited to registered pilgrims and cannot be booked in advance so there is more flexibility to obtaining accommodation than if it had to be pre-booked, useful when the Camino Norte is 800km long. Of course, traditional B&B and hotel facilities are also available and I will use all three over the next few weeks.

While you have to register as a pilgrim to use the albergues, some are run by the Catholic Church, you do not need to be a practicing Christian to stay in them. In fact only about 40% of those completing a Camino say they did it for religious reasons. A similar number do it for spiritual reasons. In my opinion, if you are not walking competitively, or trying to set a time challenge, the only reason to do a long distance walk is to benefit the inner self (whatever that means, please discuss). So are all long distance walks pilgrimages? What makes us do them? Does a pilgrimage have to end at a religious site? I will leave you to debate these questions but I will refer you to the following two books:

Frederick Gros. A Philosophy of walking

Rebecca Solnit. Wanderlust. A History of Walking

For this walk my main references are the Cicerone Press guide by Dave Whiston and Laura Perazolli, the Village to Village map guides of the Caminos Norte and Primitivo, the web site gronze.com and the wisepilgrim app. If you are interested in walking a Camino then the Camino Forum web site will give you food for thought and help you decide which to walk.

So, for whatever reason, after a long weekend in Paris Angela saw me off on to the TGV to Hendaye and the Spanish border.

I was using my iPhone for navigation so I had walkmeter switched off. The distances walked are estimated from the above sources. Once again thanks to Lucy who with* discover the typos.

*She spotted it😂