Approximate distance 19km

The last day on the Camino! A glorious, sunny day, perfect for the occasion. I had a short walk uphill to rejoin the Camino, stopping for tostadas and coffee on the way.

The first half of the walk was on tracks, mainly through eucalyptus forest. I came to a second coffee stop at Arenal, only 3km but one must savour the last day. Here I met up with Rosa, Miranda, Cass and Rachel. Rachel was trying to adopt the cat owned by the bar, she called it Pilgrim, Grim for short. Having rescued the cat from Rachel we pressed on.

It was only the following day after the walk that I wrote the draft but I cannot remember the order in which we met everyone. I know after this stop we met Jay, a young Liverpudlian. He works for the environment agency to help keep the rivers clean. One of the things he was sorting out on the Camino is what to do about his career. After 10 years of government cuts his job has become impossible.

At some point we met up with a German (I think) young man and woman who were walking separately but met the others at their albergue yesterday. A perfect group end to the Camino. For me, this was much more rewarding than walking into Santiago on my own, but it got even better. I got a text from Richard saying that he and Erin wanted to greet me in the cathedral square in Santiago.

We re-entered the forest after San Paio and heard the sound of bagpipes.

There was then the less welcome, alien sound of aircraft as we walked near Santiago airport. Then we could hear the roar of cars at a motorsport centre.

We arrived at the road at Lavacolla. According to Wisepilgrim the village got its name from either “field at the bottom of the hill” or “wash your scrotum.” It is traditionally the place where pilgrims used to wash in the river. We all stayed fully clothed. There is a church here, the last one before Santiago and several perigrinos were praying in it.

Only 10km to go. It was all road from here. We climbed Monte de Gozo. There were a lot of cars parked here, there was a music festival going on which we could see (and hear). There were suddenly a lot of people and cars about.

Santiago came into view and it was downhill into the suburbs. I stopped for a phone call but caught up with the others for lunch and beer. I got a text from Michael to say that he had arrived. I sent Richard my location so he knew when to expect me. Let’s be honest, Rosa sent them the location but I think I know how to do it now.

We set off for the last time. To my surprise I felt quite emotional as we arrived at the old city. We stopped for an ice cream and then walked past lots of bars and souvenir shops, as well as some of the 400 000+ pilgrims a year, Santiago gets a lot of other religious and non religious visitors.

Finally, like many thousands of pilgrims have done before us, we walked down the steps, past a bagpiper and entered the Plaza Obradoiro, in front of the cathedral. Richard and Elin met us. Then Monika from Lithuanian arrived, I had only spoken to her a couple of times but she had stayed in albergue with some of the others, she took the picture of me looking out to sea on Day 24.

The square was crowded, there was live music playing. Lots of other people were congratulating each other. There was much photograph taking, hopefully all will be shared with social media.

It was time to say goodbye to the young ones. Richard, Elin, Miranda and I went to the Hotel de los Reyes Catalicos, claimed to be the oldest hotel in the world, welcoming pilgrims for over 1000 years. It’s now an expensive Parador. We had coffee while, presumably, the young ones found a bar. Thanks to everyone for making my arrival so special.

But it wasn’t all over. I went to find my hotel, Miranda went to find Rosa and Richard and Elin went to prepare for their walk to Finistere. Michael texted me to tell me the name of a bar and the four of us met for a final drink. Peter (the Australian) was still in Santiago so he and his wife (Katey) joined us. The people I did not see were Alex (gone home), Gerry (elsewhere in Europe with his family) and Karen (who texted me today to say that she had just arrived in Santiago.

Peter and Katey went to pack for a road trip and the four of us had a final meal together.

On Sunday I got up late and, after getting my Compostela, went for a walk around the enormous cathedral complex. I went into the cathedral and mass started while I was there so I stayed. The sound of the organ and choir in the large cathedral was both atmospheric and impressive. The bufameiro, probably the largest chalice in the world did not swing. I saw the Dutch couple I had dinner with in Parga.

So what did I take away from the Camino? It was a very enjoyable walk. The sense of community was tremendous. I am so grateful to all the people I met and walked with for making my Camino so special. The people I encountered were all very caring about the environment and their fellow humans, but maybe that reflects the sort of person that walks a Camino (I find this aspect is true of most people I meet on long distance walks, see my comments on pilgrimages in Day 0 introduction).

I didn’t have an epiphany, I didn’t expect to. Neither was I struck by a bolt of lightening in the cathedral for my disbelief. I did lose 3.5kg, despite all the food I ate. Am I a better person for walking a Camino? Probably not, but it would be nice to think so. Did I change? That is for the people around me to decide.

Meanwhile, I am off to plan my next Camino.

Approximate distance 20km

The sun was out again today. I stopped at a bar for coffee and croissant in the main square. Almost immediately , I turned on to a track that entered a eucalyptus forest. The rest of the walk today was mainly on tracks.

Although I had been warned I was surprised at how many pilgrims there were on the trail. There were more pilgrims in eyeshot than I would see on most days of the Norte.

At first I was disappointed because it meant that the camaraderie and the sense of community that I had found on the Norte were lost. To obtain a compostella (certificate of completing a pilgrimage) you only need to walk 100km. The Frances is the most popular route anyway and a lot of people start from Sarria, the nearest place to Santiago where they will qualify for a compostella, which is about 70km before the Norte and the Frances merge.

After a while I became more sanguine. A lot of the Peregrinos were young, maybe they could not get time off work or afford to do a walk that takes a month or more. Perhaps some of the older pilgrims had a medical condition or were carrying an injury. One of the lessons of the Camino must be to be more tolerant of others and be mess judgmental. Anyway, everyone can choose what they do on their Camino.

As usual in Galicia the path wound its way through forest and alongside meadows.

The advantage of being on the Frances was that there were bars in most of the villages so coffee was readily available and I didn’t need to carry any food. In one village I got an idea for recycling my old boots.

If I walk far enough maybe I could have a display at the RHS garden in Bridgewater. Despite the number of people it was easy to spot my, by now, regular walking companions and a short but pleasant day’s walk meant I arrived in O Pedrouzo for lunch.

There was a fiesta in town and I was worried when the lady at reception gave me earplugs to wear. My fears were groundless, I was on the opposite side of side of the building to the festival and there was not much noise.

She also gave me a recommendation of where to eat. El Bule, which did have a more upmarket menu de noche for 18€ was fully booked but Michael and I had an excellent meal in the a la carte Galaicos.

Approximate distance 22km

This was my last day on the Camino Norte as it joins the Camino Frances at Arzúa. I had a large breakfast at the cafe outside the monastery, omelette, about half a baguette, Santiago cake and coffee. Rather full, I left Sobrado on the road and was soon in the countryside.

Most of today’s walk was on tarmac but it was still very pleasant with the rolling countryside and intermittent forest. I have really enjoyed the pastoral, green Galician countryside.

Michael caught up with me and we walked together to the bar at Corredoiras where we stopped for coffee. The Dutch couple I had dinner with at Parma came past He went on and I phoned Angela. While we were chatting Rosa, her mum (Miranda) and Cass appeared. I finished my conversation, they had coffee free and then we set off together. Another sociable day on the Camino!

Opposite the bar there was a lady running a stall selling cherries and pretty china kitchen accessories. We walked for another 3km on tarmac, albeit through nice countryside, until we came to Boimorto. This appeared to be the last coffee stop for a while so, although we only just had a break, coffee and a snack was mandatory. There was a lovely old basset hound at the bar

After coffee we caught up with Rachel from Flixton. She had been doing the Camino Primitivo but had switched paths (probably using the Unoffocial Camino Verde, I forgot to ask) to avoid some of the Frances but also to stay at the monastery in Sobrado. I had a chat with her about the Primitivo and it appears my fears about accommodation were ungrounded.

Most of the rest of the way to Arzúa was on tarmac but the scenery remained nice . As usual, towards the end of the walk I dropped back.

The Norte joins the Frances in Arzúa so there was lots of pilgrim accommodation. I was staying in a pension on the edge of town which extended along the main road. There were a lot of pilgrims looking for albergue, bars or somewhere to eat. Michael and I went out and found a restaurant offering a menu de noche which was very pleasant.

Approximate distance 24km

Another beautiful day wandering through the woods and between the green fields of Galicia. There was an old tower next to the albergue. The only thing I could find out about the tower is that it was part of a castle built in the 13th or 14th century.

I set off on toads and tracks through the forest. There were signs telling me it was a dog training area. It was a large area and I wonder whether it is used to train search and rescue dogs. No activity was seen today.

I got a coffee from a bar and continued to climb up to a ridge with wind turbines on the top.

Ahead there was a broad plain

The Camino dropted down to a main road. This stretched into the distance and, I must be honest, it did not make for particularly interesting walking. Michael caught up with me at a bar in As Cruces. After a drink we had a short walk through a wood to rejoin a road. I gradually fell behind. Wsepilgrim suggested that I would follow the road most of the way to Sobrado but after a kilometre or so there was a new route through forest.

The track eventually led back to the road which I crossed to enter more forest and, after another kilometre of off-road walking, I arrived at the monastery of Sobrado.

I stopped at the bar and met Rosa and her mum who has joined her for the last few days walk. I then went to check in and was welcomed by Brother Lawrence, an English monk. He led us through to the cloisters. The dormitories are rooms that opened on to the cloisters, mine was an old storage room. Very nice, spacious with only about 10 beds. It was sunny so I sat on the lawn in the middle of the cloisters and read.

At 7pm we were invited to Vespers. This was very atmospheric. There were 10 monks. Brother Lawrence played the organ. I didn’t really understand what was happening as the service was in Latin and Spanish. There were several moments when all was silent and the monks were contemplative. I thought it appropriate to meditate during these intervals. Nick (Australian), who I haven’t seen for several days, sat next to me. Unfortunately the silence was broken by someone’s mobile phone ringing (on three occasions).

Afterwards we went to get the menu de noches at the bar outside the monastery and returned before the 10 o’clock curfew. Perhaps because the dormitory was cool, I had my best night’s sleep in an albergue.

Approximate distance 25km

I got an early start by buying croissants and orange yesterday and eating them in my room. I was on the Camino just after 07:30. I avoided the Main Street and followed the yellow shells through the old part of town

On each of the posts (you can see one on the right) there was a short poem or aphorism. I think they were written in Gallega, the Galician language, as Google translate didn’t work when set to Spanish.

I joined a path on the outskirts of Vilalba. I followed it to cross a river. There was a moderate climb on the other side. It was mist and so it was cold.

Like yesterday, most of the walk was on paths or tracks. I met the other five from last night’s dinner at a bar where we all stopped for coffee. I discovered that the Americans are not Trumpists. In fact, they refuse to mention him by name, only referring to him as “ the 45th”. Alex asked me what I thought of Brexit and , I think, was a bit surprised by the vehement pro European response.

We walked together, in various combinations for a couple of hours. For a short while, Dale and I walked with three post grad students, from Mexico and Columbia but studying in Paris.

I stopped for a bite to eat at a shelter. I think this woman was taking the stop sign too literally.

It was now a road walk into Baamonde. I met the others at a bar and had a final drink together. Alex couldn’t get accommodation here so took a taxi further down the trail, the Americans and Michael are staying in Baamonde and taking an alternative route to the monastery at Sobrado dos Monxes and will arrive there the day after tomorrow. I am continuing to Parga and will arrive at the monastery tomorrow.

Reluctantly, I set up off the road. After a couple of km I turned off down a track that crossed the Parga river by a medieval bridge.

I climbed uphill to the 14th century chapel of San Alberte

The rest of the walk was mainly on road, much of it passing through forest. After a couple of kilometres, I came to to the village of Parga and it’s albergue.

I think the albergue is an old farmhouse. There was a nice common area with comfy seats and a garden that got the sun in the afternoon. There was a communal dinner but only a Dutch couple and I took up the offer. It was nice. Salad followed by a chickpea stew and custard and caramel.

Approximate distance 21km

Abadín is situated at an altitude of about 500m and it was only about 7 degrees Celcius when I left the albergue this morning. It warmed up quite quickly in the sun.

This was a very easy day’s walking. The village to village guide says there was 390m of ascent but I find that hard to believe. The Camino followed roads out of Abadín but sooner turned on to a track. I then followed paths or tracks for the majority of the day until I reached the outskirts of Vilalba.

After I left the road there was a short climb. The tracks passed between fields full of wild flowers with hills in the distance. For a while, I walked with a group of Americans: Dale, Naomi and Becky.

The track then descended to cross the Anllo river in a wood

There was then another modest climb. At the top of the rise the flatness of the Galician plan became apparent

The rain in Spain is said to fall mainly on the plain but the forecast for this week is sunshine.

I made fast progress. In Castromaior there was a topiarist making furniture out of hedges.

I am unsure whether this would be comfortable to sit on. Another house had a picture of a disgruntled pilgrim on its front gate.

I dropped down to cross the Batan river by a 17th century bridge.

There was a man selling scallop shells and other Camino paraphernalia by the bridge, the first souvenir seller I have seen.

I had walked 13km by 11am. It was like walking in lowland England. Galicia has a high rainfall so everything was very green. It was a mixture of agricultural fields and small area of woodland. There were even some Friesian cattle. I stopped at a bar for a beer and sat with the German I shared a room with last night, Alex, and an Irishman, Michael. It was then just a short stroll into Vilalba.

I met up with the others named above in a pizza place for dinner. they shared pizza and salad. I am afraid I was hungry and had a pizza all to myself.

Approximate distance 13km

The posts are getting shorter but the walking in Galicia is very enjoyable, there is just not much more to say. A short day today but it did include a 500m climb up to the Galician plateau.

The dormitory at the albergue was split into male and female. I had the male side to myself (I think there was only one woman on the other side). Despite this I still didn’t sleep well.

I got up early and realised I only have six walking days left. I am confident of finishing now on 1 June so I booked a flight home. I had a late breakfast and set off about 9:00am

I picked up the Camino at the cathedral. There are two routes out of Mondoñedo. I chose the shorter, steeper one as it is meant to be nicer. It was certainly a long, steep climb. You do the 500m in one go over about 3km. The first few kilometres are on quiet roads, the rest is on tracks. Just before I left the road there were some old stone carvings.

The path climbed through eucalyptus forest but there were occasional clearings and the valley and Mondoñedo looked beautiful

Near the top of the climb the forest ended and I was walking between grassy fields with excellent views over the surrounding hills. There were some wild horses on the summit.

On the other side the track stretched into the distance.

It was great walking through the rolling countryside. I made fast progress and was at the albergue by about 2pm.

The Xabarin albergue was excellent, I was in a four bedded dormitory with only one other occupant. A comfy mattress on wooden slats so there was no creaking of old springs. The room had air conditioning. There was a large garden where we could sit in the sun and dry washing

Opposite there was a bar doing a menu de noche, three courses for 20€. I sat with a couple of Dutchmen I had seen earlier in the day, one had asked me if I had eaten snail soup for breakfast as I was creeping slowly up the hill 😂. There was much talk of Dutch football managers. For what it’s worth, we agreed that Ten Hag should be given another season at United and Slot is likely to do well at Liverpool.

Approximate distance 18km

This was another great day, walking through the hills of Galicia. Vilamartin is at the top of a hill so the first part of the day was a long walk downhill on minor roads to Gondan. There was a row of wind turbines on the ridge in the distance. There were scattered houses in the valley.

I feel that wind turbines are a necessary evil. While they are artificial intrusions into the natural landscape we want clean, renewable energy which they help provide.

I walked through Gondan to the next village, San Xusto. I arrived just as the bar opened so I got my second coffee of the day. I continued on the road for a short distance. The Camino then turned on to a track that ran through a eucalyptus forest.

I came out of the forest on the hillside opposite Lourenzá.

I followed tracks and a road to enter the town by a medieval bridge.

The focal point of Lorenzá is the 10th century monastery

I had time to visit the monastery and a guided tour was advertised starting at 12:00. The sign said to enquire at the tourist office. This was shut so I gave up and walked on.

I climbed out of Lorenzá on a mixture of road and tracks. I met the Brazilian women who were at the Pension last night and we walked together for a short distance. There are raised grain stores in Galicia but they have a different design to Asturias

After the farm buildings the track joined a road that led to Mondoñedo.

I entered the town across another medieval bridge. I dropped my rucksack at the albergue and went to visit the cathedral.

The is known as the kneeling cathedral as it is not very high. I got an audio tour in English which was very informative. The cathedral was impressive.

Back at the Albergue I found the dormitory was, unusually, split into male and female sides. There was only one other woman there, in a 40 bedded hostel, so we should both get a good nights sleep.

I ate in the hotel with a group of Americans and an Irish cyclist.

Approximate distance 20km

The Cicerone guide and Village to Village suggest crossing the mountains in Galicia in two days, a distance of 55km and 2200m of ascent. My knee is a bit better after a few easier days so I decided to split this part of the Camino into three.

There was no bar on today’s walk so I waited for the cafes in Ribadeo to open at 9am so I could have breakfast. The late start might explain why I only saw one pelegrina today.

There is a large central square in Ribadeo. The town hall is an old Palacio, a statue of its original owner stands on the steps.

The Torre de los Moreno is an imposing building next door but was covered in scaffolding as it is being restored. The restaurants left me in no doubt I was in Galicia

The local speciality is octopus and there were several pulparias. I must say I don’t fancy trying the dish.

It did not take long to cross the suburbs of Ribadeo. The route markers have changed, I can no longer rely on the orientation of the shell but have to watch for the arrow. The distance to Santiago is also shown on the stone marker so you get a countdown as you progress through the day.

187,540km seems a bit long. I don’t see how they can measure it to the metre. Call me a pedant but the distance would change depending which side of the road you walk on round bends.

The day started sunny but the clouds soon rolled in covering the mountain tops to the south. Once I left Ribadeo I began to go uphill. At first this was mainly on roads but as the morning wore on the proportion of time I spent on tracks increased. The cloud slowly lifted and as I gained altitude the views improved.

At Vilela there was an area for resting and calm

I continued to walk through eucalyptus forest. At intervals the trees thinned out so I could see the view. Between the forest there were fields and isolated houses.

The path descended to cross a river at Ponte de Arante where there was a hamlet and a Chapel.

I now had a 300m climb over about 5km, mainly through forest, to get to the Pension where I am staying. It was really nice to be in the hills again and I enjoyed the walk, one of my favourite days on the Norte. The view from my bedroom window was not to shabby either.

There were only two other pilgrims staying in the Pension. A mother and daughter (I think) from Brazil.

Approximate distance 23km

It was sunny when I woke up. I set off in shorts and a T-shirt. After a short section on the road I turned off on to a footpath through forest

The path emerged from the wood at the main road. I crossed the road to follow a series of minor roads that passed between villages. By now thick cloud had developed and it as cold . I stopped to re-attach my zip-off legs and put on my fleece. There was an unusual pilgrim in the front garden of one of the houses.

The pilgrim theme was repeated at another house

The scenery was typical of the last few days, fields interspersed with woodland with mountains forming the backdrop.

It started to rain. There was another stretch of off road walking. At Porcia I crossed a river by an old bridge

I must admit the next 7km was a bit of a trudge. Mainly walking on tarmac with a few tracks until I arrived at the town of Tapia de Casareigo. I walked above a rocky beach.

I stopped for brunch. The men’s loo had an unusual game in the urinal

On the other side of town the Camino passed above a lovely sandy beach. I then followed a road climbed gently away from the beach. There was then a long, straight section of farm roads. In good weather this would have been pleasant but there was low, grey cloud, grey sea and the mountains were obscured by mist and cloud.

I passed the beautiful Playa de Peñarronda, there was a bar above the beach. Even though it was drizzling I stopped for coffee as this is the last beach of the Camino.

There was now a long section along minor roads but the sun came out! I missed a yellow arrow and ended up on the outskirts of Figueras but it was only a few hundred metres extra.

I left Asturias by crossing the estuary of the Ria de Ribadeo on a pedestrian path by the side of the A8.

I was now in Galicia, the last region in my journey across northern Spain. On my look round Ribadeo I bumped into Rosa and Stefan. They were on their way to the albergue with a large carrier bag of beer and wine. How much walking they will do tomorrow I wouldn’t hazard a guess. Richard and Elin are also in town.

I have been a bit negative about the last few days in Asturias. I think if the weather had been better I would have enjoyed the walks more. Also there are several sections when you can follow the GR coastal path which I haven’t because of the rain.