Miles walked: today 19 cumulative 1007.5

I quickly found my way to the riverside path, if I had continued for another few hundred yards last night I would have saved myself a walk around the housing estate. The path ran through the woods around the housing estate before passing under the A71 to enter Calderwood. This is an area of ancient woodland that has been saved from development because of the local geology. It consists of a delightful deciduous wood alongside Murieston water.

Murieston water joined the river Almond and I entered the Almondvale Country Park. The path ran gently downhill though attractive woodland by the side of the river.

Drama occurred at a playground near the visitor centre. A child from (I think) a playschool group escaped and ran down to the river. He was chased by an adult. Fortunately, the river was not deep here so he had a little paddle and no harm was done.

Along the river I started seeing signs for the Shale Trail. These were either icons on the footpath signs or wooden posts with aphorisms on them

From the mid 18th Century the area of West Lothian was extensively mined for shale to extract oil. The industry started to decline in the 1920s. The trail is effectively an open air walking museum. At intervals there are QR links to their website explaining the trail. I thought this was a brilliant idea. I dipped in and out of the trail through the day.

Before I did Lejog I had never considered how the water level in canals is controlled. I now know that water can be released into rivers (day 38) and that reservoirs were dug in the South Pennines to supply water (day 60). I now walked along a culvert that is fed from a weir on the river Almond to feed the Union Canal

I could see the canal aqueduct crossing the Almond from the culvert. I climbed up to the towpath and was surprised to see how close I was to the Forth bridge.

The Union canal was opened in 1822. It runs from Falkirk to Edinburgh and was built to carry coal and minerals to Edinburgh. It will me my companion until I arrive at the Falkirk Wheel tomorrow where it links with the Forth and Clyde canal and hence with Glasgow. It was designed to run along the 73 metre contour and was known locally as the “mathematical river.” Locks, of course, were unnecessary.

The first part of the towpath was Ok. I had views towards the Pentland Hills. There were quite a few cyclists and walkers so there was a chance to chat. One man approved of my idea to do Lejog as a retirement challenge. He and his wife decided to go on Pilgrimage to the Santiago de Compostela, doing a month at a time. They walked through Scotland, crossed over to Holland and then continued the walk. Impressive!

As I approached Broxburn an enormous spoil tip came into view and I would see several more on the walk today. The Shale Trail app informs me these are called Bings. There is a story that a Victorian house is buried intact under one of the bings. At the moment they are a red eyesore but the earth is fertile and slowly plants are beginning to colonise the bings. Eventually it is hoped as the soil is improved by primitive plants and grasses trees will take root and the Bings will turn green.

I turned off the towpath to take a short cut through Broxburn. When I rejoined the canal the walk became tedious. Over much of its length the canal is surrounded by banks with trees growing on the top so there were only occasional views. Towards the end the canal ran on an embankment so the view opened out but I was pleased to get to Linlithgow. I could have shortened the walk considerably by leaving the Almond at the visitor centre and following lanes to Linlithgow and on balance this would have been a better option.

Linlithgow Palace, in its current form, was built by James I and became his royal residence. Mary Queen of Scots was born here.

It had been a lovely sunny day although after leaving the river Almond the walk was rather dull. I was happy to sit by the loch and have an ice cream

Miles walked: Today 14.3 cumulative 988.5

I left West Linton via the Loan Road, still following the historic drove route. The road is now lined by large houses and I wonder whether the village has become a base for wealthy commuters to Edinburgh. The road soon left the houses behind and, lined by trees, passed between fields up alongside Lyne water.

For a short distance, the drove road runs along an old Roman road, which used to link garrisons at Biggar and Edinburgh. It is easy to forget that the Romans did not stop at Hadrian’s wall but tried to subdue Scotland as well. I have already passed a Roman fort at Melrose. More of this in a couple of days.

I followed a stony access track to a reservoir further up the valley. Once again I was surrounded by rounded, grassy hills. I passed an isolated farmhouse:

If I turned round I had a good view back towards yesterday’s walk

Above Baddinsgill reservoir the Drove Road is known as the “thieves road.” Raiders would attack the cattle trains. Both drovers and raiders were well armed and deaths were not uncommon. The pass was also used by the reivers riding south to attack northern England. A notice by the path informed me that this was not just a medieval problem. Sheep theft is an ongoing threat to hill farmers livelihood.

Above the reservoir I entered moorland but there has been little rain in the last few weeks so I passed through dry footed. I climbed gradually to reach the Cauldstane Slap.

A Slap is a pass, although I was unable to find the derivation of the term. Cauldstane Slap is a pass through the Pentland Hills that stretch south west from near Edinburgh. They look like they would make fine walking but would entail a long detour to the East (Moxon did this on his walk in 2003, reaching in Edinburgh and then returning along the canal that I will join tomorrow). Cauldstane Slap is actually a wide saddle, very flat at the top. A marker post informed me that this was a popular excursion for the Victorians who would get the new train to Calder and then walk over to West Linton.

I admired the view, back into the Southern Uplands and forwards deeper into Scotland. I then left the Southern Uplands and began my descent into central Scotland. I have really enjoyed the last few days walking. It was not difficult, the scenery was magnificent and, although I could always reach a village or town each day, there was a real feeling of remoteness. This joins Cornwall, the Quantocks and the Malvern hills as being one of Lejog’s highlights.

I reached the end of the Cross Borders Drove Road at the A70. This is marked on the map as “Little Vantage.” There used to be a coaching inn and a toll booth here but nothing remains except a small car park.

I then had the treat of the day. In his Cicerone guide route guide, Andy Robinson recommends climbing Corston Hill, just to the south of the A70. The view from the top was tremendous. I could see along the length of the Pentland Hills to the South. To the east there was Arthur’s Seat and Edinburgh, I could clearly see the Forth rail bridge and the white suspension towers of the Queensferry crossing, which looked like sails from this distance. To the north were the foothills of the Highlands.

I now descended the ridge and followed the road to my hotel for the night in Bankton. I had trouble finding accommodation tonight, fit walkers continue to Linlithgow, too far for me. Bankton is a new development on the north side of Livingston. I had a short walk alongside a busy A road but was then able to follow a riverside path into a new housing development. I couldn’t work out where the hotel was on my OS map. After wandering around for a bit, Google maps took me to the rear (locked) entrance but someone took pity on me and let me in.

Miles walked today 13.4 miles cumulative 974.2 miles

I haven’t done any multi day walks since lockdown so although I have only been walking 3 days I planned a rest day because I was unsure how I would feel after two 20 mile days. In fact, I think I would have been fine to carry on. The weather was a bit drizzly so it worked out rather well.

On Saturday I started my day off by walking upriver through a waterside park and through a wood to Neidpath castle

There was been a fortified tower house here since about 1190 but the first one was burnt down by the English. The current castle dates from the late 14th century although it needed partial rebuilding after it was attacked by Oliver Cromwell. If you watched the BBC series “Merlin” you may recognise the castle.

I returned to the town and visited Cross Kirk. A cross and a stone urn were found on the site in 1241. It was believed the urn contained the remains of St Nicholas (who died in Turkey) and Alexander III arranged for a friary to be built on the site. It is now ruined and there was no access today.

Peebles is a pleasant town. There is a park in front of the river. The wide high street has a lot of independent shops and some attractive Victorian buildings. It was good to see people using a “real” butcher and baker and I took the opportunity to get lunch for tomorrow’s walk. I then popped into a cafe for lunch and after an afternoon’s sleep and the entertaining Portugal v Germany match I was ready to resume the walk.

Sunday dawned a bit brighter and I set off early. It was another day following the old drove route and my last full day in the Southern Uplands. The path quickly climbed up the side of Hamilton Hill with good views back to Peebles and the hills that I had crossed the day before.

In general, the walk was at a lower altitude than yesterday. There were still great views of the surrounding grassy hills but for most of the morning I was walking between fields with grazing sheep and cows. For the first time since the first day, I noticed some traffic noise as the A703 ran through the valley below.

I descended to the remote farms at Stewarton. There was then a short boring climb through a thick pine forest, the trees planted in close rows so there was no undergrowth, before I emerged at the abandoned farmhouse at Courhope.

The path descended through open forest to emerge at the Flemington burn. It then wound round the hillside to the Fingland burn which the Cross Borders Drove Road web site describes (justly) as a highlight of the route.

The path ascended gently towards the trees on the left in the distance. I passed the only other person that I saw today a fell runner. There was one family about a quarter of a mile ahead but they turned off my route before I caught them up.

I took one last look back at the valley before entering the wood, crossing a col and descending through farmland at Rommanobridge. I passed a group of bullocks who expressed an interest in chasing me. For once I felt in control as they were on one side of the fence and I was on the other.I don’t think they would deliberately hurt me but they are big and stupid.

I then had a short walk into West Linton. I could see my next target, the Cauldstane Slap in the distance

I could see West Linton on the map but where was East Linton? Up until the mid 18th century there were two Linton villages, the other lies about 35 miles to the east. This caused confusion to the new postal service so the villages were re-named west and east. West Linton is one of the oldest Burghs in Scotland and was an important stopping point for the drovers.

Miles walked: Today 11.9 miles Cumulative 970.8 miles

A short day today. The weather was mainly cloudy but dry. For the next few days I will be following the Cross Borders Drove Road. This path runs from the foot of the Pentland hills, above Livingston to Hawick. It was the route drovers used to take cattle from the markets around Falkirk south for sale in North England.

My ear worm for the day had to be “Queensland Overlander” (Australian for drover). I discovered this song on a field trip to my next door neighbour’s record collection in Hall of Residence. It was on an album by the Bushwackers Band, amazingly still available on ITunes. The band was formed when its members wanted to go to a folk festival and realised if they played they would get free entry. Their claim to fame was the invention of the “lagerphone,” essentially beer bottle tops nailed to a piece of wood that would be tapped up and down to the beat.

I left Innerleithen by the road to Traquair. I detoured through the grounds of Traquair House. This is a Manor House that claims to be oldest continually inhabited house in Scotland .

The original owners were Catholics and staunch Jacobite supporters. After the failed 1745 uprising they swore that the Bear Gates would never reopen until a Stuart once again sat on the throne. They are indeed still shut and access is by a drive to the right. There is little chance of the gates re-opening as there are no known living direct descendants of the Stuart line.

I turned on to a lane that followed the Traquair Water up to the moor. The cross borders drove road has an interesting logo, best described as an artists impression of a bull

I left the lane after the gates to the Glen Estate and climbed steeply up the flank of Birks hill. I was passed by a couple of mountain bikers but there were no other walkers out this morning. As I gained height the views of the surrounding hills opened up. From the top of Kirkhope Law I thought I could see the Pentland Hills to the north. These form the barrier between the Southern Uplands and the Central Lowlands.

My descent was along the ridge in the middle ground. On the way I passed a couple out for a day hike. We agreed that the Southern Uplands are remarkably fine walking country. They said the walk up from Peebles kept them sane during lockdown. I was lucky too, (and I am not being ironic) I had the Mersey Valley and the Trans Pennine trail to keep me amused. I felt sorry for people stuck in the middle of towns or cities with minimal green space. I wasn’t even tempted to drive to the Lake District to test my eyesight. By the way, if you suspect your vision is impaired why would you drive 25 miles to test it? And why put your family at risk by having them in the car?? One rule for those in power and one for everyone else….

Just before a Peebles I crossed a burn in Gypsy Glen. This was a popular stopping point for the drovers. The drove would consist of up to 1000 cattle, one man would herd up to 60 cattle helped by dogs. The would use places like this to rest and feed and water the beasts. They would sleep around the herd with just their plaids for shelter from the elements.

Miles walked: Today 21.9 miles Cumulative 958.9

Today was perfect walking weather: Temperature in the high teens, a bit of cloud so I didn’t get too hot and a mild cooling breeze on the moors. Visibility was excellent.

Today and tomorrow I am working my way up the Tweed valley. Today I followed the Tweed at the beginning of the walk, then took to the moors on the south side of the valley. I was following part of the Southern Upland Way which runs coast to coast from Portpatrick to Cockburnspath.

I can recommend Burts hotel in Melrose. Last night’s dinner was excellent, my bed was comfortable and everyone’s cooked breakfast looked nice, I had my customary porridge. I started off walking down to the river past the abbey.

The Abbey was founded by David I as a Cistercian abbey. It didn’t open until 10:00 so I could only look at it from outside the fence. It looks larger than Jedburgh but was sacked several times by the English so was rebuilt in the late 1300s, only to be laid waste again by Henry VIII in the 9 years war.

Robert the Bruce’s heart is buried here. His body is buried in Dunfirmline. He wanted to go on crusade but was too infirm so, after his death, his heart was removed and mummified. It was taken on a (failed) crusade to expel the Moors from Spain and on return it was buried in Melrose. The location of both the body and heart were lost but in 1921 archaeologists found the heart. Earlier, the royal tomb was discovered in Dunfirmline Abbey. When the tomb was opened the skeleton inside had a split sternum….

I then joined the riverside path. The Tweed was flowing slowly and reminded me of the Severn. I got into a lethargic mood and was happy to stroll along or sit in the sun and watch the river go by. Not a good idea on a long walking day. Eventually I girded my loins and sped up and followed the river to Tweedbank

In Tweedbank the path left the river to go through the town. As I walked alongside the railway a Geordie voice called to me from behind. He was doing Lejog, and started this year in Cornwall, there are at least two other people doing the trail who are in the Borders at the moment.

He left me as we rejoined the Tweed, the path passing through a wood between the river and the A7. I took a short cut across the southern slopes of Bala Hill, the official route detours into Galashiels. There were good views back to the Eildon Hills. Sir Walter Scott’s house, Abbotsford, could be seen in the valley.

The path then crossed a ridge to rejoin the Tweed several miles upstream. I passed two women out for a day hike. One of them eyed my rucksack. “I suppose you are walking to John O’Groats as well?” “Er, yes As a matter of fact I am.” Now I am about two thirds of the way I am more prepared to admit to my daft scheme. However, almost apologetically I always explain that I am doing it in stages.

Now the hard work of the day began. I crossed the river at Yair bridge and entered a coniferous forest. The path climbed relentlessly. There were no views because of the trees and so I just got my head down and climbed. On emerging from the forest the views were spectacular. The hills of the Southern Uplands are grassy and rolling, rather than mountainous. Imagine the Howgill fells or the Yorkshire Dales but on a much grander scale. You will have seen them if you travel up to Scotland on the M74. I am usually on my way to the Highlands but what a treat I have missed. Yet another unmissable treat of Lejog.

At the top of the hill are three large cairns, the three brethren

These were built in the 16th century to mark the boundary of three estates. The views from the top are fantastic,

While I was admiring the view and eating some food a runner paused for breath. He is planning to do Lejog pushing a wheelbarrow

The next eight miles were amazing. The path, sometimes grassy sometimes stony, followed the ridge with great views. I crossed the top of Brown Knowe which, at 523 metres, will be the highest point on my Scottish route. I could see back past the Eildon hills as far as the Cheviots. (The forest in the mid ground is the route up to the ridge, the three brethren are just off camera to the right.)

Most of the descent to Traquair is through forest. At the edge of the trees I saw a backpacking tent, I presume this was the walker I saw earlier. I entered the forest and was pleasantly surprised. Many of the mature trees had been harvested and the new plantation was only a few feet high so my views over the hills continued. Innerleithen came into view, nestled in the valley

Many of the paths in this area are old drove roads and the path I will follow tomorrow, the Cross Borders Drove Road, joined the Southern Upland Way. I passed a spring called the Cheese Well. This is said to be inhabited by fairies and travellers would leave offerings of food hoping the fairies would ensure a safe passage across the moor. It is said the fairies were partial to cheese.

Further down the hill there is an art installation called “Point of Resolution ” by Charles Paulson.

From this viewpoint the circles cut in the heather look circular but as you walk down past the piece they are actually large ovals.

Rather tired, I arrived at the road in the hamlet of Traquair. The oldest inhabited house in Scotland is here, but hidden from the road by trees. I crossed the Tweed to enter Traquair. The river was placid again here and I saw my first salmon fisherman

I knew this would be a tiring walk so I booked into the first pub I would come to when reaching the village. The Traquair Arms was a good stop.

Miles walked: Today 20 cumulative 937

I thought 20 miles was too far for my first day so, about 2 months ago, I drew some short cuts on the map. Unfortunately today I thought they were wet weather alternatives so I walked the full distance. I wasn’t even put off by the couple who said to me : “That’s a long way, it’s over 20 miles.” Anyway, I made it.

The day was dull with occasional drizzle but it was warm. I stopped at Queen Mary’s house, where she stayed when she visited Jedburgh in 1566. It is closed because of COVID but the outside is impressive.

There are some pear trees in the garden. Pears were introduced by the Augustinian canons when they arrived from France and they thrived in the climate of the Scottish Borders. They were highly sought after in the 19th Century, but their popularity waned after the Victorian era.

I decided to leave Jedburgh by joining St Cuthbert’s Way (see day 69 for an explanation) and retraced my steps to Dere Street which I first met on the Pennine Way. Bad move! That added an extra mile, I should have walked down the road. At this point Dere Street is a farm track that descends to the Jed water. I followed the stream through woodland to the river Teviot. I walked along the river, past a swan sitting on her nest, to a relatively new, but wobbly, suspension bridge. I then passed through the mixed woodland and rhododendrons of the Monteviot estate and crossed a road to rejoin Dere Street.

Almost immediately there was a cafe that had been recommended to me by one of the guides at the Abbey yesterday. The cake was indeed perfect and, as it was stuffed with raisins and had a sugar icing, I claim I ate it for medicinal reasons, to boost my carbs.

Suitably refreshed, I continued in a dead straight line along the Roman Dere Street. This was now a very pleasant grassy path passing between fields and woodland over gentle hills. To the left, on top of a hill about a mile away, I could see an old Victorian mausoleum which is meant to be well worth a visit. After a couple of miles the path passed Lady Lilliard’s Stone. The inscription is worn but is reproduced on a metal plate:

Fair maiden Lilliard

Lies under this stane

Little was her stature

But Muckle was her fame

Upon the English loons

She laid monie thumps

And when her legs were cutted off

She fought them on her stumps

Legend tells of a woman who fought in the Battle of Ancrum in 1544 (in the Nine Years war, see yesterday’s post). She fought the English, some say by the side of her lover, and was grievously wounded but continued to fight on. However, in the Ballad of Chevy Chase there is a verse describing a squire who suffered a similar fate at the Battle of Otterburn in 1388 (recounted in the ballad of Chevy Chase) so it may not be true. An information board near the memorial suggests that even if there was no Lady Lilliard it is an appropriate memorial to all the women who were brutally raped, killed or both in the border wars.

Eventually Dere Street joined the A68. Here I could have taken a short cut along the road but decided to continue along St Cuthbert’s Way. I passed a small church at Maxton that had a stained glass window that was impressive and then had a very pleasant walk along the River Tweed. I had hoped to see Dryburgh Abbey which is on the other side of the river but the ruins were obscured by trees.

I walked through St Boswell that had an interesting monument to commemorate the establishment of a freshwater supply in the mid 19th century

My final barrier of the day drew closer. These are the Eildon hills. My path passed over the col between the middle and right hand hill. There is a Roman fort on the right hand hill, Trimontium. Important finds are displayed in the National Museum of Scotland and there is also a small museum in Melrose.

Just before the Eildon Hills I walked through the village of Bowden. Here there is a Pant Well, one of only 2 remaining. Pant wells were constructed in the early and mid 1800s, water was diverted from a spring or well through a pipe to avoid contamination. Interestingly, this well was built before Snow’s report linking the cholera outbreak in Soho to a contaminated pump in Broad Street; so it appears that the importance of isolating a clean water supply was becoming appreciated at several sites in the nineteenth century.

I climbed up to the col in the Eildons but I was too tired to go to the top. The cloud cover was heavy and it started to drizzle. Even so, I could see back to the Cheviots and forwards towards the moors that will take me to Peebles.

I continued down a steep path into Melrose. This was a very enjoyable day’s walk through varied countryside. I am staying in Burts Hotel After a long soak in the bath I went down to the bar for some lamb rump and a couple of pints of Timothy Taylor. Recommended.

So, with lockdown partially lifted, I am off to try to complete Lejog. I am currently on the train back to Jedburgh, where I ended my walk last year, the mountains of the Lake District just coming into view. I decided not to camp this year and my route will follow the “classic” route adopted by many Lejogers.

The Firth of Forth provides a major obstacle to a direct trek north. There are only two crossing points, the Forth Bridge, which entails walking through Edinburgh. Nice as the city is, urban walking doesn’t tick the right box for me. The second alternative is to cross at Stirling but this involves a lot of road walking, again not my cup of tea. The preferred route by most is to head west, turning north between Falkirk and Glasgow.

So, tomorrow I will continue my walk through the Scottish Borders, using what promises to be an excellent walk on a variety of long distance paths in the Southern Uplands. I will drop down to the central lowlands to reach Linlithgow and then follow the Forth and Clyde canal and John Muir trail to the West Highland Way at Drymen. The West Highland Way will take me to Fort William and, if fitness allows, I will bag a few Munros on the way. I then will walk through the Great Glen to Inverness. Finally, if I am not devoured by the Loch Ness monster, I will follow the nascent John O’Groats Trail and finish the walk as I started with coastal and cliff walking.

This route will mean that I can always find a B & B or a pub to sleep in. On the way I hope to learn some Scottish history, from a Scottish point of view, by reading Magnus Magnusson’s book “Scotland: The Story of a Nation.” and I am sure some of what I learn will find its way into the blog.

After arriving in Edinburgh I took the local train to Galashiels, one of the few lines to re-open after the Beeching cuts in the early 1960’s. The line runs along the Gala valley which was very pretty. I then caught the bus to Jedburgh. This gave me a preview of tomorrow’s walk, which looks good. I was tempted to get off the bus in Melrose when we passed the pub I am saying in tomorrow.

I spent the rest of the afternoon walking round Jedburgh Abbey

This was one of four Abbeys built by David I in the 12th Century, the others being at Kelso, Melrose and Dryburgh. Jedburgh was built for the Augustinian order. It must have been a magnificent building, it was attacked many times by the English before being reduced to a ruin by Henry VIII during a series of wars in the 16th century. Walter Scott called them the “Rough Wooing” as Henry’s army carried out a bloody campaign to try to force the young Mary Queen of Scots to marry his son Edward (later Edward VI). The conflict is probably more appropriately named the Nine Years War as it was particularly brutal and was really about an attempt to force Protestantism on the Catholic Scots as well as trying to impose English rule.

I wouldn’t have fancied being a monk. A display at the Abbey describes the canon’s day: up for prayer at 3:30am and one meal a day, usually vegetable stew is not my idea of the good life. They were allowed fish or fowl once a week but red meat was forbidden as it is conducive to sin. Talk was forbidden at mealtimes, the only sound was a canon reading from a religious text. If you wanted more potato you used sign language.

Jedburgh was also the birthplace of James Thompson who wrote the words of Rule Britannia in 1740.

Jedburgh was originally built at a crossroads with narrow alleys, called Closes, leading to courtyards. Some of these had very low entrances. They reminded me of the Wynds in Shrewsbury

The town was really quiet. I ate in Belters Bar (recommended, extensive burger menu including meat, fish, and veggie) and the landlord said that tourism hasn’t picked up yet in the Borders. Indeed, many of the bars appeared to be closed on a Tuesday, only opening from Thursday to Saturday, maybe this will change as we get into summer. There were only 4 small groups (including me) in Belters this evening.

I returned to my B and B to sort out my maps for tomorrow. I edited the blog during lockdown and noticed I often grumbled about pain in my left hamstrings. I decided to do something about this after the Pennine Way. I joined a gym and a personal trainer, Conor O’Hanlon , has been working on me. Previously I thought all I needed to do was a few walks to build up the relevant muscles and a bit of stamina. He impressed on me the importance of balanced training and a strong core. During lockdown he set me a routine I could do at home, although the weights were limited to a couple of kilo bags of rice and I have trained hard since the gyms were allowed to reopen. I feel much fitter and I felt much more comfortable on the walks that I did this spring.

Miles walked: Today 20.9 cumulative 917

This was the section I missed when I had heat exhaustion. The problem with pre-booking accommodation is that if you have illness or injury you have to miss that section out or all your B and B are lost for the rest of the trip.

I returned back to the point from where Angela rescued me in August. Angela Taxis again provided transport. They have proved invaluable this leg and I would recommend them on Trip Advisor (even if the fleet comprises of a single Citroen C1; if you request luxury transport she puts the radio on). They are even free! When we arrived at Wessenden head the cloud was heavy and low and it was very windy. I set off downhill and I was lulled into a false sense of security as the wind dropped as soon as I left the ridge.

Almost immediately after the path left the road I came upon an art installation by the Yorkshire artist Ashley Jackson

His aims are to demonstrate how the artist views the landscape, to show the viewer, how great the landscape is and that it can be a “free” art gallery for all to enjoy; hence the quote “many people look but only a few see.” It is true that it is possible to walk all day and not really take in the surroundings. I try to use mindfulness techniques at intervals to really absorb the sights, sounds and smells of the environment.

Today was a walk around reservoirs. Lots of them. Some were built to supply water to the local towns, including ensuring a constant supply to the local mills who relied on water power for their machines. Others were built to provide a reliable source of water for the canals which were an important transport infrastructure before the coming of the railway

Below the Wessenden reservoir the path turned West and ascended back on to the moor. The strong wind picked up as soon as I left the valley and stayed with me all day. Fortunately it was mainly behind me and pushed me along. The cloud quickly broke up and there was sunshine all day.

Much of the day involved either crossing moorland, which felt very remote, despite the proximity to Manchester and the frequent roads crossing west to east, or walking along outcrops with good views to the west. The walk flirted with the Lancashire/Yorkshire boundary. Obviously, the Lancashire sections were the best. All together a great days walk.

Much of the moor consists of grasses. There is a project to re-introduce a wider variety of plants such as heather and spaghnum moss. This will have the benefits of raising the water table (spaghum traps a large volume of water). As well as improving plant biodiversity and offering a habitat for a wider variety of moorland wildlife the increased water content should reduce the risk of wildfire and downstream flooding

Just before crossing the M62 I passed the Holme Moss transmitter mast

This was an important television transmitter until 1968. It also formed part of the “Backbone” microwave network during the Cold War. This was a “line of site system” designed to maintain communication between cities in the event of a nuclear war damaging other systems. As you can see, all the TV antennae have been removed. The mast is still used by mobile phone providers.

I crossed the M62 and Blacktone Edge for a final but misty view back to Manchester

At the north end of Blackstone Edge the is a medieval marker stone

This was originally about 7 feet high. These stones served as waymarkers for travellers but were also used as a site to pray for a safe journey. Some were used to transport the deceased to consecrated ground for burial and had places to rest a coffin nearby so a prayer could be offered for their souls.

A Roman road descends to the north. There are still paving stones on the road, but historians differ as to whether these are the original Roman stones or make up a newer road built on top of the original.

The path then passes more reservoirs before crossing Withens moor to reach Stoodley Pike

Stoodley Pike was originally built to commemorate the fall of Paris after the battle of Waterloo. It collapsed after a lightening strike on the day the Russian ambassador left London prior to the Crimean War. It was rebuilt at the end of the Crimean War.

It was a short walk down the hill to Hebden Bridge. This was a fine walk to complete the Pennine Way and my crossing of England. Scotland awaits in 2021.

Miles walked: today 17.8 cumulative 896.1

Now I have left the Pennine Way the sun has come out! There was a slight delay at the start as someone had gone home with the kitchen keys. While waiting for breakfast, I had a wander round the village, which is mainly centred on the village green and I visited the Kirk

Today’s route followed the St Cuthbert Way. Following a vision, St Cuthbert trained as a monk at Melrose Abbey. At the age of 30 he made a pilgrimage to Lindisfarne and the Way is meant to recreate his route. As is the norm on this walk, I am travelling the opposite way, ie towards Melrose

As I have already said, some Lejogers leave the PW at Dere Street and go straight to Jedburgh. The route it takes from Jedburgh through the Southern Uplands appealed to me so today I headed south-west to Jedburgh. I walked alongside Bowmont Water which passes between Kirk Yetholm and Town Yetholm. I crossed a field containing rather belligerent looking cows. Their eyes said: “don’t mess with me Jimmy.” They left me alone and I was soon climbing up Wideopen Hill with fine views back down the valley and across to the Cheviots.

On the way down the hill I met a retired vet by a field gate. The path crossed the next field but there was a rather fierce looking bovine the other side of the gate. “That’s a bull” the vet said. Indeed, inspection of the animal’s undercarriage confirmed a male member of the species. There were two bullocks with him. He looked like he wanted to teach his sons how to terrorise the English like the good old days, we avoided the field.

The hard work of the day done early, I descended to Morebattle. The name probably has nothing to do with fighting but derives from the Anglo-Saxon mere-bodl which means “the house by the lake”. It did have a rather nice pub, so I had a leisurely lunch sitting in the sun in the pub garden.

The afternoon was an easy, slightly undulating walk through farmland and along quiet lanes. After a couple of miles I came to the ruin of Cessford castle.

The castle was built by the Ker family in the late 15th Century. They were a powerful reiver family who also had a bitter blood feud with another reiver family, the Scotts. It sounds like the Borders were a lawless area at this time. A placard at the castle quotes the Bishop of Ross as saying “They do not concern themselves whether it be from the Scots or the English that they rob and plunder.”

The path the went through some pleasant, light woodland and joined Dere Street. I will follow this again when I return, but for now I turned off towards Jedburgh after 200 yards. Jedburgh looks a pretty town and has an old abbey. I plan to look round it when I return to the walk next year.

Miles walked: today 12.7 cumulative 878.3

The wind dropped during the night but the temperature dropped to just above freezing and I had to wear a base layer and socks in my sleeping bag. It was misty (and cold) when I woke up but this soon lifted and it became a nice day with sunny intervals. There were excellent views across the hills.

The importance of wild camping is to leave no trace behind.

I only had half a bottle of water left so breakfast was cereal bars and an apple. I then set off along the ridge. The Cheviots look beautiful; green, rounded hills but they are one enormous bog. There are only a few short sections of paving stones. Simon Armitage wrote in his book that most of these come from old mills and the grooves on the stones are where machinery was attached. I read on a notice by the path that peat is an important carbon store and erosion by walkers leads to increased carbon emissions. The causey stones therefore help mitigate the effects of walkers on climate change. Bodies such as the National Trust and National Park Authorities are also trying to re-seed denuded peat to help prevent further erosion.

As the day went on the cloud dispersed and there were fine views over the moors. I passed the second mountain refuge on the ridge, very similar to the first. Finally the last peak of the Pennine Way came into view: The Schill

Stunning views from the top. I could see the Solway Firth to the West and the North Sea to the East. Behind me the ridge I had been following was spread out in a semi-circle. In front was the lowland between the border and the Southern Uplands. I was so taken by the panorama I forgot to record a video.

I descended from the top and crossed the border fence for the last time to enter Scotland. The Pennine Way splits into two and I selected the lower route, I had had enough bog trotting for one day. I soon was walking through farmland. I knew I was in Scotland when I saw:

I was soon in Kirk Yetholm and the end of the Pennine Way. I have walked across England. Just 450 miles of Scotland to go.

That evening four of us sat in the bar reflecting of the high and low points of the Pennine Way. We agreed High Cup Nick and the Yorkshire Dales were the best bits and the waterlogged moor above Greenhead the low point. The others were going home but I had one more day planned.