Distance walked: 15 miles/24.5km

This was a longer walk than I was expecting. Mainly because I misinterpreted the Cicerone guide. I hadn’t realised I was staying a long way north of where the stage in the book ended. I also missed a turn and there were two points where the trail had been diverted. Excuses over.

I must admit I woke up a bit jaded. Not from alcohol but from overeating the delicious supper last night. In fact I hardly had any breakfast but my hostess let me make a sandwich and that fed me for the rest of the day.

I could have walked into Soumagne to rejoin the route but I retraced my steps to join GR5 where I left it yesterday afternoon. The walk started ok. I crossed some fields that were pleasant enough but then got diverted around a new housing estate. I eventually joined a cycle path that I could have reached much more quickly.

I crossed a main road and followed a grassy path across field which then ran under trees to reach a main road on the outskirts of Aveneux to meet up with today’s route in the Cicerone guide. I had walked four extra kilometres. There was another detour here, up a residential road rather than across a field. I then arrived on the farm track as planned but I wasn’t paying attention and missed a turn. Detour number 3 was of my own making but I eventually arrived at the village of Saint-Hadelin

I set off on the intended track that ran between fields with nice views of the surrounding pastoral countryside. The track climbed over a ridge, ran through a forest and descended to Olne, another pleasant village.

I sat in the shade by the church. I didn’t feel well and had stomach ache. I had a bit of food and some water. In retrospect, I think I was suffering from the heat and dehydration.

I left Olne on a farm track that descended between fields. I got my first good views of the higher Ardennes hills in the distance.

I turned on to a track that narrowed and took me down to the hamlet of Vaux-sous-Olne. I now felt quite unwell and this was not helped by a steep climb up though trees on the other side of the village. There was an equally steep descent into Nessonvaux. I crossed the Vesdre river and entered the Ardennes.

There was a supermarket next to the bridge so I bought a couple of litres of drink. After a litre of fluid I began to feel better and decided to press on. There was a steep climb through trees above the Vesdre followed by a descent to Fraipont.

Now the Ardennes began in earnest. Steep steps led away from the road into forest. The path seemed to climb steeply forever. Well, 2km anyway. The trees cleared to my left and I could see the countryside I had crossed earlier today. The path continued to climb gradually until it levelled out near Banneux.

I emerged on to the main road opposite the Shrine of the Virgin Poor. A young girl from Banneau reported that Mary had revealed herself on a number of occasions. She said she was the Virgin of the Poor. After investigating, the Catholic Church accepted these revelations and Banneux is a place of pilgrimage.

Distance walked: 10 miles/16km

I returned to GR5 by the overnight ferry from Hull to Rotterdam. This was much more convenient than going to Harwich via London (and Angela could have taken me to Hull if there was a rail strike) but I felt uneasy about using P & O after they sacked their employees earlier this year to employ cheap labour, at less than the UK minimum wage (see archived Guardian press reports for more detail).

After a bus transfer to the railway station I took the train and arrived in Maastricht at lunchtime for an afternoon stroll back into Belgium. This leg of GR5 will take me through the Ardennes hills and across Luxembourg to Schengen, about 330km.

I walked into the centre of Maastricht by crossing the Mass (Meuse) river by the Sint Servaasbrug

The bridge is said to be the oldest in the Netherlands. It dates from the 13th century but has been restored several times since, and was almost completely rebuilt after the Second World War. It is now reserved for pedestrians and cyclists. I assume the statue is of St Servatius. It reminds me of the statues at Argonath in Lord of the Rings, a bit more welcoming though.

I passed a shop selling lollipops. I didn’t realise the Dutch advocated drugging their kids

Recommended for long car journeys.

I did wander round Maastricht before returning home last time. It’s beautiful and I would strongly recommend a visit for a short break. I rejoined GR5 by walking through the city centre, then between the old University buildings before passing through a gate in the old city walls. I walked alongside the new campus to reach the river Jeker. This wound its way out of the southern suburbs into the surrounding countryside.

I now had to climb a hill! About 100 metres! The path rose through light woodland and across farmland to reach the top of the ENCI-groeve. This is a huge quarry, most of which is now being restored as a nature reserve. I think part might still be functional as I could hear machinery in the distance. GR5 follows the top of the quarry to a viewing platform. This marks the end of another long distance path, the Pieterpad, that starts in Groningen. A plaque also informed me that it is only another 2512km to Nice. From the platform, steps descend into the base of the quarry where there is dramatic scenery of tunnels cut into the wall when the whole quarry was active.

The path followed the base of the quarry, past water filled pits and the quarry buildings. It was a hot day and I was pleased there was a van selling cold drinks. I then climbed out of the quarry into light woodland before contouring round the hill with views towards Kanne and into Belgium. At some point I crossed the Dutch/Belgian border and descended to walk along my old friend, the Albert canal.

I crossed the canal at a road bridge. Kanne appears to have joined up with Eben-Emael. I walked down the main road before turning off on a track that went between the back of gardens and fields to run alongside the Geer stream. I joined a road that entered Eben-Emael near its church. I was now in Wallonia, the French speaking part of Belgium.

It was then just a short walk to the Rue Haute, my B and B for the night. This was a beautiful house with a lovely garden dominated by an enormous walnut tree. Apparently there will be walnut spread for breakfast tomorrow. The owner, Marga, had already asked me whether I wanted dinner. “Yes”was a great decision. Lovely pasta which included courgettes from the garden with apple pie to follow.

Following a good nights sleep there was an enormous breakfast. The walnut “peanut butter” was as good as it was claimed to be. I ate as much as I good and Marga then told me to take something with me for lunch. So I had a sandwich, fresh fruit and, of course, walnuts packed away for the walk. Rue Haute is strongly recommended!

This is where I will add posts about my walks in Scotland

looks like LEJOG part 2 is off this year. In theory I could camp and cook my own food en route I don’t know whether campsites will be open, and communal washing and toilet facilities are hardly self isolating. Wild camping is theoretically possible but is illegal in England, difficult in central Scotland but I will explore this. If I do this there will not be a blog as I won’t have internet access or charging facilities for my electronics.

Favoured option at present is to stock the car up (or use the trains) and bag some Munro’s as well has some of the lower but still beautiful Scottish hills. Or the Cape Wrath trail or Knoydart (avoiding the village at the tip of the peninsula) which is self isolating in the extreme!

Stay safe everyone and the blog will continue in 2021