Distance walked: today 18.6 miles cumulative 579 miles

A dull but dry start to the day. All of today’s walk was along The Staffordshire Way. I left Penkridge by the towpath of the Staffordshire and Worcestershire canal which passes behind the backs of houses. There are some vicious looking birds here fortunately this one couldn’t fly across the fence.

The canal soon entered countryside. I watched one couple negotiate a lock, it looks like hard work! I chatted to a man walking the towpath. We talked about the route I had taken and he is going to try to find the blog and make a donation to CF. Many thanks.

Verbal consent obtained for photograph

The canal passed under the M6 and I crossed the canal by a lock keepers cottage

I continued along the Staffordshire Way across farmland to Cannock Chase. This was well signposted with the logo being the Staffordshire knot

The origin of the symbol is unknown but there are a couple of good legends:

The most grisly concerns an executioner who had three criminals to hang but only one length of rope. By using the knot he made three loops and hanged all three at the same time. Modern management would have approved of his efficiency.

A more romantic tale concerns Ethelfielda, the daughter of Alfred the Great. She was defending Stafford and brought the lords of the three local areas together. She took off her girdle and tied the knot saying “with this girdle I bind us all as one”

This latter story also gives rise to the county motto “the knot unites”, please read the motto carefully, I took great care typing it correctly. It is only a single overhand knot so my surgical friends may prefer “the knot unties” as they would not trust it to ligate a blood vessel (a “surgeons knot” has at least three alternating throws).

After several miles of farmland I passed through the village of Bednall to reach Cannock Chase. This is a beautiful area of mixed scrubland and woodland

Morning dew on cobwebs in the gorse was most attractive

The Way crosses the Chase before turning north in the Sherbrook valley. It then passes between hills to leave the Chase to join the A513. It was a shock to the system to have to walk along a main road but it was only for half a mile and there was a wide verge.

I then entered enter the grounds of Shugborough Hall. This was built by Willian Anson in the 17th Century. There is an interesting display of artefacts that he collected on his travels as well as an account of his brother’s career as a privateer, a bit of a dubious character if you ask me. Privateers were private individuals who had government authority to cature merchant vessels. Some historians believe that this was just legalised piracy!

There is an interesting display of contemporary farming in the Park Farm and a number of monuments in the grounds that I could see from the path. Patrick Litchfield lived here and you can go round his apartments. I left Shugborough by crossing Essex bridge, the longest remaining packhorse bridge in the country.

This led to the Mersey and Trent canal. The two canals I walked along today join just north of here and link the Severn, Mersey and Trent rivers. These were bulit by James Brindley and were extremely important economically before the railways, hence the wealth of some of the towns and cities that I have passed through since Gloucester.

The canal passes alongside the river Trent, just separated by a bank in places.

The last few miles of the walk were through Staffordshire farmland to Abbots Bromley via the village of Colton and alongside the dam of the Blithfield reservoir.

Distance walked: today 14.7 miles cumulative 561.4 miles

Lovely pub food last night but as I was taken there I am not sure what the pub was called or where it was (I hasten to add this is because I was not paying attention and not due to excess alcohol).

Kate was working so she was up and ready to leave by the time I awoke. Tim and I settled down to porridge and then I set off for the Staffordshire Way accompanied by Tim and Jarvis.

View back to Pattingham church

We parted company where the Staffordshire way left the Wolverhampton road and the heavens opened. I quickly got into my wet weather gear and set off across the fields to Codsall where I sought refuge from the elements in a coffee shop. This also contained a bakery and there was a lovely smell of baking bread. As I said yesterday, my cagoule is no longer as waterproof as when it was new so I was somewhat soggy and left a puddle of rainwater on the floor.

The rain continued and I pressed on to Brewood and a pub lunch. I am afraid the walk itself was forgettable. Visibility was limited, the rain heavy and I just concentrated on getting there as quickly as possible. I think both Codsall and Brewood may be perfectly nice towns but not in the rain.

I decided to abandon the Staffordshire way in preference for a shorter walk down country lanes. It actually stopped raining for a while but I got another soaking just outside Penkridge. A walk to forget because of the weather, but I count myself lucky as this is only the second day to be a wash out since I started.

Tim drove over and we had a nice evening in the Littleton Arms

There are several option to cross middle England for the Lejoger. Some turn north-west in Somerset to cross the Bristol Channel and head up Offa’s Dyke path. The alternative is to go up the Cotswold Way and choose to go around Birmingham to the east or west. Robin Richards decided on the full Birmingham experience and crossed the conurbation on canal tow paths. The east route takes the Heart of England way after the Cotswold Way and this joins the Staffordshire way at Shugborough (see tomorrow’s blog). Andy Robinson guide follows the bottom third of the Offa’s Dyke path before turning east through the Shropshire Hills to reach Penkridge.

I really enjoyed my route (west) which is very similar to Mark Moxon’s. He continued up the Severn where I turned west to cross the Malvern ridge. This was an unnecessary detour but one of the highlights of the walk for me. The disadvantage was once I had left a recognised “Way” many of the paths were obstructed by undergrowth, crops or broken stiles. The days on the Severn were very enjoyable. I wanted to go over Kinver Edge but couldn’t find suitable accommodation (there is a 5 star hotel). The short detour via Pattingham was to see Tim and Kate.

Of course there is no official route and walkers can follow their own desires.

Miles walked today 18.5 miles cumulative 546.7 miles

A beautiful morning again so I decided to have a further few hours following the Severn to Bridgnorth. I followed the west bank of the river this time.

Although the rabbit population is threatened the mallards are thriving, there were literally hundreds on this stretch of the Severn.

I must be getting paranoid, when they quack I think they are laughing at me. In the introductory section of his Cicerone guide to the End to End Trail, Any Robinson comments that Lejogers usually walk alone as no one is daft enough to go with them. Maybe the ducks share this view. They ignore me until I get too close, then they all take off at once. Impressive. Elsewhere along the river there is a large population of swans.

I passed nice riverside parks yesterday near Stourport and Bewdley where there were some interesting sculptures. This fish was situated near the bridge at Highley where I crossed the river this morning

This was another very pleasand, relaxing walk and I was sorry to leave the Severn. One thing Lejog as taught me is how varied the countryside is in the UK and to value the lowlands as well as upland Britain. Reluctantly, I left the river atBridgnorth which is a really pretty town. It lies at one end of the Severn valley railway

The town is split into the higher town and the lower town. There was a castle at the top of the hill but only a few stones remain although there is a nice park. The old town hall is still present on Main Street in High Town.

After cheese on toast for lunch ( two doorsteps and about a pound of cheese, thanks Castle Cafe it was great!) I set off down the Cartway to the river. This was the only road between the high and low town until the mid 18th century. It was a bit of a disreputable area! The houses were either pubs, lodgings for sailors (who were described as ruffians) or “houses of ill repute.” There is only one pub left (the Black Boy, named after Charles I) which I assume is highly respectable, and I failed to spot either a salt of the sea or a lady (or indeed a gentleman) of questionable morals. The road itself is very pretty.

Behind the houses are caves that were lived in until the mid 19th century.

I crossed the Severn for the last time and set off over the fields to Pattingham. I passed through the grounds of Davenport House, now a hotel and wedding venue. Next to the house is the village of Worfield which was rather nice although a bit posh, mums picking kids up in BMWs and Porsches.

It now stated to rain so it was heads down and wet weather gear on and march on quiet lanes to Pattingham. As I approached the town I was met by Tim and Jarvis (he is the cocker spaniel)

It really poured and I discovered that the waterproofing on my Cagoule is not what it once was!

It was a short walk to Tim’s house, a cup of tea and a chance to dry out before a trip to the pub.

Miles walked today 18.6 cumulative 528.1

I’ve had a panic about the distance walked. Walkmeter consistently reads more than I measure on the map with a map wheel. I know GPS tends to over read if there is a poor signal but the maps it draws seem accurate. Maybe I tend to draw straight lines with the wheel where the path curves, especially when following rivers. I will trust the technology and put the discrepancy down to human error.

There was an autumnal crispness to the air as I set off in sunshine, heading up the West Bank of the Severn. There was still some mist over the water giving an atmospheric feel to the morning.

The path passed through a mixture of fields and farmland. The Severn flows sedately here and I thought that if Paul Robeson had lived in Worcestershire he would have written Ol Man River about the Severn because it seems to just go rolling along. Every so often the calmness of the river was interspersed by short stretches where the current gets faster, as if the old river was having one last go at being powerful. Of course, it doesn’t realise the shock it will get below Gloucester when it collides with a bore.

The leaves on the north facing branches of the trees are just starting to change colour

Having read Moxon’s book, I was prepared for an increasing number of caravans and chalets as I headed upstream, but as I approached Stourport there was a park of densely packed static caravans as far as the eye could see. I crossed the river at Stourbridge, wandered into town for a coffee and then set off along the Eastern bank. There were several smaller developments of chalets and caravan parks.

It was now raining. After a few miles I arrived in Bewdley. Both Stourport and Bewdley were important ports on the Severn before the railway as goods were carried up the river to a canal linking the Severn to the Mersey. Bridge across the Severn at Bewdley

Much of Bewdley is Georgian reflecting when the town was in its heyday. The row of buildings on the riverbank used to be flooded regularly up to the level of their windowsills until the flood defences were improved. As I edit this in 2021 I am reminded of last years’ storms when this row of shops and houses were completely flooded.

My lunch spot was the riverside cafe, the green building on the left in the above picture. After lunch the sun came out again. Above Bewdley the river and path run adjacent to the Severn valley railway so every so often there was the whistle and puffing of steam engines.

Despite the showers this was a very pleasant and relaxing days walk. I was suprprised about the number of caravan parks as I would not of thought this scenery would have mass appeal. Perhaps people are attracted by the gentle nature of the Severn and the close proximity of the Wyre Forest and Kinver Edge.

I left the river at Highley to head uphill to the pretty village of Alveley. My sleeping arrangement for tonight was in a sleeping pod, essentially a double bed, a small table and a kettle

I would have preferred the hobbit hole

Then disaster! The pub did not do food on a Sunday night. Fortunately my son, Tim and his fiancée, Kate live nearby (more on tomorrow’s blog) and came to the rescue. They picked me up and we went for an excellent curry in Bridgnorth.

Kate is a vet and I mentioned that I was surprised how few rabbits I had seen on the walk. She told me that a new virus has got into the country and has decimated the rabbit population. On that sad note I returned to the pod.

Distance walked today 9 miles cumulative 509.5

It is good to be back. I had longer off than I originally planned but I needed to time the walk to fit in with Tim’s (my son) off duty so I could walk with him for a few hours and stay with him overnight. It also allowed more time for my knee to recover although it was sore again after 5 miles. Worcester is close enough to home so I could plan an afternoon walk and I only left home this morning. I had a coffee at the station. The muzak included a piano version of “Stairway to Heaven” which, surprosongly, sounded really good. A tribute to a great song is that it sounds good whoever is playing it (with the exception of me singing it)

It was good to see that Worcester was bustling on a Saturday morning. One way to limit car journeys is to use public transport to go to a city centre rather than to drive to an out of town mall.

I grabbed a pasty from a local baker and crossed the Severn. I had a good view of the cathedral.

I turned north along the stretch of the river bank called Henwick Parade. Local legend says that a girl called Sabrina (Latin), Sabern (English) or Hafren (Welsh) drowned in the river here, giving her name to the Severn. The legend tells of Locrinus, King of England who was married to Gwendolen to forge a political alliance. In a battle, Locrinus captures and falls in love with a Hun princess with whom he has a beautiful daughter (Sabern). Gwendolen raised an army and gets revenge by killing Locrinus and throwing Sabern and her mother into the river. She ordered the river to be named after Sabern so that all remembered her husbands misdeeds (See the Worcestershire museum web site for a full account).

The Severn way passes between the main road and the river. On the opposite side are the racecourse and boathouses. Rowers were out practising. I suspect there were some new students there as some of the boats were accompanied by trainers shouting instructions.

After a few hundred yards the road diverges and the path passes alongside the river though light woodland and fields. It was sunny and hot. The weathermen have warned that this is going to be the last good day so I made the most of it and just ambled along.

After a while I came to a pub (the Camp House Inn) on the river near a weir. It would have been rude to walk past so I sat on the riverbank and enjoyed a pint in the sunshine.

I really shouldn’t drink at lunchtime. I wandered along following the waymarks not bothering to check the map. Suddenly the path came to an end, the way forward being blocked with brambles and a brook. I retraced my steps. I had missed a turn but this was also too overgrown to allow access. I retreated and looked at the map. Of course, the path I hadn’t taken was clearly demonstrated by the map to be the correct one.

I then got stuck again. I came to a farm where the fields had been divided up into pens so the children could see the animals. There was also a frisbee golf course (honest, a “grown up” was playing it). I worked my way through this but when I came to the farmhouse the adjacent fields were now a camp site with access roads not marked on the map and no path marked on the ground.

Eventually I found the track and came to Holt. This has a church that dates back to the 14th century and a fortified Manor House. The house is still lived in but the tower dates back to the 14th century. It is probable the fortifications are only decorative as the windows on the tower are large ( they would be arrow slits otherwise).

A short walk brought me to the Lenchford Inn and I have a room overlooking the river with a balcony

Nice food and beer too!

Miles walked: today 13 cumulative 500.5

When I left Bath I wished I had planned to keep walking to Edale. However, since then my left thigh has been troubling me, becoming more painful after about 8 miles and waking me at night; so I was quite happy that this was my last day for a couple of weeks.

I stopped for a coffee before I left Malvern and got chatting to a man in the coffee shop. I grumbled about virtual paths and brambles and he suggested walking down the Teme valley where the paths were well defined. This meant walking a bit further than I had planned but I took his advice and it was a good walk.

I left Malvern on a footpath through woodland and common land (pretty) and then through an industrial estate (not so pretty). I passed the Morgan factory.

Just outside Great Malven is the Beauchamp Community. This is a church and almshouses built by the Beauchamp family in 1864. It was originally built for the poor of the parish but is now open to Anglicans from anywhere in the country.

The buildings contain frescoes of historic significance but are only opened to the public for attendance at church services or on specific open days.

I then followed roads and paths down to the Teme valley. On the way I passed the Normal chapel of St John at Branford

Apparently it is lit by candlelight. It was locked so I was unable to go in. Before I descended into the valley there was a good view back to Great Malvern.

I then followed the river Teme the rest of the way to where it drains into the Severn.

The river passes under the A road at the site of a medieval bridge and the Battle of Worcester. This was the final battle of the Civil War when Charles II was defeated by Cromwell’s New Model Army (Elvis Costello knew his history) and Charles began his flight to the continent.

The old bridge still crosses the river at Powick and there is a memorial to the many Scots who died at the battle

Between here and the Severn there are information boards describing the battle. At the time there was no river crossing here. The Parliamentarians built a crossing by mooring boats to each other along one bank and letting one end of the row float downstream until it hit the other bank thus forming a floating bridge, the only time the tactic has been used in the UK.

I then followed the Severn upriver to Worcester. As I approached the weir I had a good view of the cathedral

As I walked through Worcester to the station I completed the 500th mile of the journey. It is now time to put my feet up for a couple of weeks. The next stage is a short one: from Worcester to Edale.

Miles walked: today 14.4 cumulative 487.5

Whenever I have driven down the M5 I have noticed the Malvern Hills. You see them to the west, the Worcester turn off. I have always thought it would be nice to go walking in them but never have until today. What a treat I have missed! This was one of the most memorable days on the Walk.

My route took me almost the whole length of the Malvern ridge, from Chase End Hill in the south to North Hill in the, er, north. It involved about 3475 feet of ascent with slightly less descent and I traversed about 10 hills. If you want to do it in a day you can, but you would need to organise your own transport, or investigate public transport, to and from either end of the walk. Alternatively several shorter circular walks are possible

The beauty of the walk is that the Malvern are an isolated group of hills so you can see from Dunkery Beacon in the South to the Shropshire hills and Cannock Chase (my next target) in the north; and from the Cotswolds in the East to the Welsh mountains in the West. Some have suggested that maybe this is where Langland got the inspiration for Piers Plowman; where he stood to look down on all humanity. You certainly feel like you are doing that.

My left hamstrings keep going into spasm and waking me up. The pub in Playley Green is isolated so when I woke up in the night I went outside and looked at the stars. It was slightly cloudy but I could clearly recognise a few constellations and the Milky Way.

I was meant to retrace my steps through the maize field but I thought the better of it and set off down the lanes to cross the M50. I then took a path over the curiously named Eggs Tump to reach Chase End Hill.

I then descended steeply to Hollybush losing most of the height I had gained. I climbed Midsummer hill and met a group of walkers doing a circular route, we saw each other on and off all day

Please note loss of fat since Lands End. There were good views southwards over the Vale of Leadon as well as northwards along the ridge

The path then descended steeply to the not delightfully named “The Gullet” before climbing another group of four hills ending at the Herefordshire Beacon or British Camp.

This series of fortifications dates from the late Bronze Age although the top “layer” is the remains of a Norman motte. Legend says that Caractacus made his last defence against the Romans here but it is more likely that this took place in Shropshire. It is thought that up to 4 000 people lived here and on Midsummer Hill. Again great views both back and forward along the ridge

There was then a steep descent to the pass at Wyche (where there was a craft shop called Wychecraft, I love puns). The path then ascends to the most northernmost range of the Malvern hills, Worcestershire Beacon.

At the bottom there was a sign informing me that Malvern spring water is unusual in that there are no minerals dissolved in it. The Beacon was one of the points used for the signalling beacons set up to warn of invasion by the Spanish Armada. The views are amazing, it is claimed you can see 13 counties from the top.

There was one more ascent to the top of North Hill before a long descent into Great Malvern and a well deserved glass of:

Miles walked: today 16.5 cumulative 473.1

I started the day by visiting Gloucester docks and then going to see a Severn Bore

The docks were enlarged and became important in Victorian times as a place where goods could be transferred from sea going vessels (sailing up the Severn estuary and the ship canal) to barges that could sail along the canals to the industrial towns of the Midlands. Later, cargo was transferred at Gloucester to the railway. The docks were used commercially until the 1960s since when they have been used for pleasure craft. The Onedin Line was partly filmed here.

The warehouses remain in use and there is a maritime museum as well as shopping and cafes and bars.

An old lightship, renamed Sula lies in the dock. It used to serve off the Humber coast. It is currently being refurbished as a B and B. Apparently the foghorn has been restored so there will be no excuse for missing breakfast.

Near the docks are the ruins of St Oswald’s Priory. There has been a priory here since the 900s but it fell into disuse when the main cathedral was built. There are only a few stones now although there is still a nice medieval barn.

The Severn divides near Gloucester to form Alney island which is a nature reserve. My next detour was to the southern tip of the island where the waters merge to form Lower Parting which is meant to be a good place to watch a Severn Bore. This is a large surge wave that spreads up the Severn. The phenomenon requires the shape and depth of the estuary to narrow uniformly forming a funnel that transmits the wave. Nearer the coast the wave can be surfed for a considerable distance.

Remember, I am several miles from the estuary here and the wave is travelling upstream. The first thing you hear is the roar of the water. Until I saw the wave come round the bend, I thought the noise was a train on the nearby railway.

I set off, following the Severn upstream. For the next hour or so the river appeared to flow upstream and the current was strong enough to carry large branches. It was a bizarre experience to be following the river upstream but in the same direction as the flow of water.

It started to rain as I approached Ashleworth. I stopped in the really nice but quirky Boat Inn which lies on the river bank. Small rooms and the ale comes straight from the barrel.

Looks more like someone’s front room rather than a public room in a pub.

I set off up the road passing an old tithe barn

Ashleworth was a pretty village.it was the annual fete and children were being given rides in a pony carriage. There were the usual stalls and bouncy castle. The sun had come out now as well

Village green, Ashleworth

I set off across fields towards Playley Green. This is where it is really useful to have a 1:25000 map as they show field boundaries which makes navigating easier. Drinking at lunchtime doesn’t help either and I wandered nonchalantly along not looking at the compass or map. Consequently I lost the path and veered too far west ending up at the rather nice stately home of Foscombe.

As I came over the hill to enter the Vale of Leadon I had a good view of the Malvern ridge

After stopping for a cup of tea in Staunton I continued across fields to the Chartist village of Lowbands. The Chartists were an early Socialist movement active in the 1840s. At the time only landowners could vote and MPs didn’t get a salary so only the rich could afford to sit in the House of Commons. The constituencies could be really small and parochial (called rotten boroughs). The Chartists campaigned for a vote for all men (!) over the age of 21, a secret ballot, equal sized electoral districts amongst other issues. Some male householders were allowed to vote after 1884 but working men did not get the vote until after the First World War. At this time female householders over the age of 30 could vote but universal franchise for women was not acheived until 1928.

I set off on my final path of the day but this ended as a virtual path, blocked by 8 feet high maize plants. There was even a footpath sign pointing into the maize. This time I was sure I was on course so I headed across the field between the plants. I felt like an extra in a war movie set in the Far East. It seemed to go on and on but I eventually I arrived at the Rose and Crown, a delightful pub near Playley green, with a very friendly landlord and landlady.

Miles walked: today 19.8 cumulative 456.6

I had to take a detour to Stroud to find accomodation yesterday so I had a couple of miles to walk back down the canal to the Cotswold Way. The Cotswold Canal Trust are currently rebuilding the lock near the pub. They are hoping to restore the whole length of the canal from Stroud to the river Servern. The towpath was a popular route for people cycling or walking to work. At first it passed through an industrial estate, including a factory that makes billiard cloth. Then it became mainly tree lined with either old large houses or new apartments overlooking the canal. It runs parallel to the river Frome.

I rejoined the Cotswold Way at Stonehouse. This climbs through a vineyard. I think this is part of the Woodchester Valley Vineyard. I have not had wine from this winery, but there are some excellent English wines to be had, well worth trying out.

I tasted one grape. It was not ripe so tasted very bitter, apparently due to the high seed content. When ripe grapes used for winemaking tend to be small with thick skins but very sweet, the sugars make for a much more pleasant wine and, after fermentation, turn into the esters that give the wine its flavour and, of course, the alcohol.

The walk continued through the lovely Standish wood to Haresfield Beacon. This is another area where there are a lot of prehistoric mounds, barrows etc. I saw this in Scottsquar wood which I was sure was old but I can find no reference to the stone and I assume it is a more recent boundary mark

My views from the Beacon:

My plan was always to carry as little food as necessary. I had assumed I would pick up lunch in Stroud and I didn’t pass a shop on the way out. Happily, as I crossed the main road south of Edge I came upon the Edgemoor Inn. After a pint and a delicious crispy duck salad I was ready to continue. I walked through the village of Painswick

I chatted to a woman about the walk. She was waiting for her bus with her daughter, who was about 3 or 4. She was running around, standing and jumping off the hand rest of the bench by the bus stop asking why I had a big rucksack, why my walking poles had an apparent sharp end. A normal, bright pre-school child. “She was born at 24 weeks, spent most of her first year in hospital and we are going for a check up” said her mum. A tribute to neonatal ICU.

I climbed up through woodland to Painswick beacon, a view of Gloucester with the Malvern Hills, my next target, in the background.

There was a cyclist on top of the Beacon. He is also thinking of doing Lejog, but by bicycle. He has a friend in the RAF who has done lejog in about 22 minutes – in a Phantom jet!

I now parted company with the Cotswold Way. I really enjoyed this part of the walk. Even when it was hazy, the views were magnificent. The woodland was almost all deciduous and beautiful to walk in. There were historic and prehistoric sites, picturesque villages and nice pubs. Navigation was easy, the way marking was excellent and I mainly used the map to identify places of interest.

I was back on normal footpaths. The route to Gloucester was along the Wysis way that links Offas Dyke path with the Thames path. However waymarking was poor. This is not necessarily too bad as I can use my compass. However, particularly at field edges, the paths were overgrown. At the end of a long day I was tired and didn’t relish the idea of being stung by nettles and pricked by brambles.

My plan was to climb Robins Wood hill to get a view of Gloucester before entering the city. I crossed the motorway and set off up the minor road to the footpath. There was a small wedding party having photographs taken on the common. I avoided being photographed and found the path which was actually signposted.

The path passed between houses and a fence but was heavily overgrown. The only way I was going to be able to make progress was with a pair of secateurs. “Oh bother” I thought (or words with a similar meaning). I returned to the road and set off into town.

Now, if I wanted to walk from the outskirts of a city to the centre I could have stayed at home. Gloucester is a typical city. Posh suburbs, not so nice as you approach the centre (sorry, Gloucester) and then a re-vitalalised centre with a pedestrianised shopping area. It was tedious walking.

When I got to the centre Google maps took me to the hotel. I was a bit concerned about the quality of the New County hotel. It gets mixed reviews on Tripadvisor and was only £31. I am happy to report it was fine. If you are looking somewhere cheap to saty with no frills I can recommend it (but beware, I can sleep on anything after 20 miles!). There was an excellent Indian restaurant a few yards away. The restaurant is one of the newer type who cook traditional Indian dishes as opposed to the Anglicised North Indian/Pakistani dishes usually on offer. After a good feed, two pints of Kingfisher and a good sleep, I was ready for the Malverns.

Miles walked: today 15.6 cumulative 436.8

I haven’t had good WiFi reception for the last few days so I made some notes and then this, and the subsequent day’s logs were typed after I got home.

The previous day’s rain and the recent oppressive humidity had gone. It was also slightly cooler and walking conditions were ideal.

The way ahead lay up Stinchcombe Hill. This is the best example of the vagaries of the Cotswold Way. On the map, the hill has the outline of a hand. You approach the hill from the “wrist”, the two hills on the picture representing the two bony “bumps”on the back of the wrist.

Once up on the first summit it is only about 200 yards to the path down to Dursley. However the Way turns the other way to wind round each finger in turn, about two and a half miles. With the haze of the last few days gone and good walking conditions I took the long route and I was well rewarded.

From the top I had a good view back to Nibley Knoll and the Tyndall monument

The south-westerly point on the top is the true summit. There is a viewfinder on top which says it is 180 miles to Land’s End as the crow flies. I have taken a tortuous route. I could see westwards as far as Dunkery Beacon, across the Bristol Channel to South Wales, North Westerly to the Brecon Beacons and ahead to my next target, the Malvern Hills.

The hill was donated to the public by Sir Stanley Tubbs who was a Baronet and local MP for Stroud in the mid 1920s.

I spent a lot of time admiring the views. If you walk the Cotswold Way it is well worth planning this day so you have time to do the long round. If you are not a walker you can park near the top and find somewhere to picnic, but avoid the 13th fairway; there is a golf course on top.

The path then descended steeply through woodland to the small town of Dursley. This is a pretty market town, formerly important in the wool and cloth trade. It has a nice pedestrianised area where I stopped for coffee. I met two Americans over from Colorado to walk the Cotswold Way and we saw each other periodically for the rest of the day. There is a 18 century market hall

After Dursley, the Way climbs up to Cam Long Down and then it was an afternoon of short, steep ascents and descents through farmland and woodland with great views to the west and southwest. There was a nice view of Dursley nestling in the valley

This is a typical view from the escarpment. The fields are separated by either trees or bushes.

I passed a number of prehistoric barrows and tumuli. Hetty Peglers Tump (named after an old owner of the field) lies next to Coaley Wood. There is a low entrance and you can explore inside it with a torch. A Neolithic chambered tomb has been excavated at Nympsfield and the remains of more than 20 individuals recovered. The entrance is wide and was probably used for ceremonies as well as access to the chamber.

There were good views of the Frome valley from Pen Hill. I then left the Way and crossed Selsley Common to follow the restored Stroudwater Navigation to the Clothiers Arms in Stroud.